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Marzcanna

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Posts posted by Marzcanna

  1. Khamzat, what a fight. Been watching him since his early days and I always Blvd he was top 5 quality. This fight was his biggest challenge and I was really hoping he won even tho I had my doubts. What I can say is the man is a killer that can take a beating, I do think he lacks abit of technique in his stand up game but that will come with experience and training (look at how khabib improved his standup game) but it's safe to say that a guy with 4 fights in the ufc and entering the top 5 is unheard of so I'm happy for him, but watching him fight on sat I have to say that I don't think he's ready for the champ. But Atleast now we will know what he's made of, he can take alot from his win. Top 11 beating the 2nd best guy shows the potential this guy has, now he can learn and improve himself, id give him anther 2 fights in the top 5 before giving him a title shot. I honestly blv if he has to fight for the title now unfortunately I don't see him being able to take down Usman but give him anther 2 fights he may get enough experience. I won't be surprised if we looking at the next champ 

    • Agree 2
  2. On 1/28/2022 at 11:50 AM, ORGANinc. said:

    Thought Id share how I plan to keep genetics around much longer, She's been up for a 3 weeks now.

    This is just because I thought there are a few factors that would make this viable, a decent space which is this secret Jardin 80 x 60 x 80, Which I've been having a lot of fun with, doesn't take up massive space but is still a decent size. Some airflow, ok now bathrooms fans work. 

    Then the interesting part the lighting, I wanted to make sure there was some what enough power. SO I initially thought, hmmmm how to do this without the heat. Good old trusty T8s (have done me well in the past), I'm yet to see what these specific OSRAM tubes do, I used to use the china ones, so i'm sure these will graft better. Might even pop some seeds in the new space. 🤓

    All said and done, the light was about 300 bucks minus the sonoff switch. 

    Have a lekke dag mense!

     

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    I think those cheap burple lights with the veg & bloom switches would get the job done, you might have to run them full spectrum but they work well for clones and seedlings and somewhat for veg aswel. Hardly any heat. T8s are always a good option. I have a similar setup using the old burples and when i move them into the flower room i just let them veg for anther 2 weeks under the powerful lights just to give them abit of size before flipping.

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    • Agree 1
  3. As @Naughty.Psychonaut already outlined, I also don't think heat alone is the problem, maybe a combination of things as he stated above. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think heat stress is usally indicated with crispy curling upward leaves, judging by the pics and this is a long shot without much info, it looks like continuous nute burn. But that's only one variation. Ph, water practices, very low RH, nutes, and heat can all play a part in the issue

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    • Agree 1
  4. Most plants range around 8weeks after flower with the occasional strain doing it in 7 weeks but we all can agree it usally takes longer. A 9 week or 10 week seems to be the spot for most my plants, that's when I usally look at the tricomes 

    • Like 3
  5. 7 hours ago, Ill_Evan said:

    But if you're using the autopots as per normal and certain rows of trays are lower than others, but all still remain lower than the reservoir, the system will work. 

    I think @Ill_Evan is right, in theory aslong as the res is higher than the pots it should work. If anyone is up for trying it that would be good info for anyone trying to create more space in their grow room

    • Like 1
  6. 18 hours ago, Ill_Evan said:

    Autopots and trays prepped and ready! Here is also a picture of how the roots grow into the airdomes for that good oxygen injection straight into the plant veins. 

    I like to just about cover the airdomes with leca pebbles and then fill up with a 60/40 mix of leca pebbles and coco. I find this allows for very easy drainage for the aquavalves to cycle between feed and stop, but also allows for just enough moisture in the medium for the first week where I am still top feeding. 

     

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    What air pump are you using for the domes? Can't seem to find a good one with multiple outlets 

    • Like 1
  7. I would like to know your thoughts on the use of Leca / Hydro balls with autopots, we know it's recommended by the autopots company, but there's alot of growers who don't use them at all and say plants grow just fine. I did use them on all my plants but one on my previous grow and didn't see any negative effects, this current grow I have not used them at all and again I don't see any negative effects, the plants seem to be growing as normal. So what's your guys thoughts

    • Like 3
  8. 33 minutes ago, Dookie69 said:

    I’m glad you brought up the bottom or top feed for the autopot. I see that as a solution to growing multiple strains on one reservoir. I’ve had it before where one strain goes into pre-flower faster than others… up to now I’ve had to decide on a compromise because it’s one reservoir for all. Now by top feeding the pre flower plants with a suitable nutrient ratio, the rest can catch up when ready…. Great idea.

    You can even add taps to every line going into the trays so you can turn each tray off individually if needed without having to turn off the whole system 

    • Like 2
  9. Just a quick note for the organic growers, you can do organic with autopots with great results, infact there's some debate weither or not organic in autopots grow faster and bigger than synthetics, from my previous grow comparing them both it definitely seemed to be the case but I won't go into much detail at this time (there's some articles on the net already covering this) So there's two main ways of using organic with autopots, 1. adding layers of ammendments throughout the soil and than  top feeding when needed (I suggest turning the system off for a day so not to flood the trays) or 2. using liquid nutes in the tank with bigger valves (valve 5s). For op growth I would suggest investing in bigger valves regardless of what method you use and the new 20L fabric pots. The autopots have made my grows a "sit back and enjoy" vibe. Only going into the room once in awhile to check for any leaks or to top feed. 

    • Like 4
  10. The ideal temp is 16c, it's very difficult to do that during the hot season without an aircon, 23c isn't bad at all and and RH is on point, I would still dry trim for that extra moisture. Without an aircon or someway of bringing down the temps, our best bet is to focuss on RH and dry trim. 

    • Like 1
  11. 1 minute ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

    Similar said about feeding the plant bloom the day before taking clones, it make sense to me.

    Dont do what I heard last month, and give them 24h dark after cutting, I heard this from a grower who was told to do this by a pro grower apparently 

    The bloom does make sense, worth a try, as for the darkness I'm not too sure. What's the theory behind it? 

    • Like 1
  12. 3 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

    Veg tent update. I've come to a realisation and have acted upon it. I don't believe I will get a chance to go back to certain strains that are in my stable for a long while and it is eating at my resources a bit to keep preserving them in the small space that I currently have. I am happy though with all the cloning I had to do in order to preserve the mothers so at least my cloning game got an upgrade...or so I thought.

    So we remain with;

    • Zkittlez x Purple Punch - Ripper Seeds (ZxP)
    • KmintZ - Ripper Seeds (KM)
    • Gorilla Zkittlez - Barneys Farm (GZ)
    • Wedding Cake - 1000 Hills Nursery (WC)

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    The four KmintZ seedlings are doing really well, although I have noticed a small deficiency developing and gave them a healthy dose of nutrients. In general I try not to max out the nutes right away and try work my way up slowly so maybe I started a bit too light. The leaves are looking nice and chonky, fat indica vibes, but as you can see there is some hints of yellow developing on the edges and centre points of the leaves. I saw @CreX mention having similar issues with potassium deficiency and the leaves looking something like this, so I'm keeping that in mind. The coco is not reused.

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    The ZxP clones are coming on nicely. Although they take much longer to root than I had initially planned for. These clones rooted only after like close to a month. Bananas. You can imagine what utter delight it was to finally see roots pop out. As far as I understand I do everything correctly; 45 degree cuts near or on the nodes, double dip (gel + powder), trim the leaves, soaked Jiffys in warm water, vents closed for first three days, vents open until roots appear, spray only leaves from top once a day, if Jiffys get too dry I dip the bottoms of the Jiffys in extremely weak pH'd nutrient feed.

    I mean they look pretty healthy for sitting in a propagator with no supposed roots for more than 3 weeks so I'm not sure what's not triggering the root growth sooner. My initial thoughts are maybe that the Jiffys are too wet in the beginning, so the clones are waterlogged. On the next run I am going to gently squeeze out a little of the water out the Jiffys before planting the clones. I'm also thinking I need to take some bigger clones. 

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    Don't know if this is related or if it works. But it's said that if you spray them with bloom nutes it helps them root faster. I've only started trying this so I still don't know how true it is 

    • Thanks 1
  13. On 11/4/2021 at 10:33 AM, ORGANinc. said:

    Hello Garden folk! 

    So I have decide to do a new and improved soil recipe that i'm going to make at home out of easy purchase ingredients. 

    These ingredient will be in the ratio of what I believe will have really good results given the system is taken care-off, I'm typically going to put this soil in 2 x 40L pots out-doors..., I have not picked the strains yet but I know I need more soil so why not try something new. 

    I will cut the nonsense and get straight to it. 

    The recipe. per Cubic foot (28L of soil, might be closer to 30L but its not super precise)

     

    5L sphagnum peat moss + 5L Coco

    5l perlite + 5l vermiculite

    8l Wormcasting (wermbosch)

    1/4 Cup biochar

    1/2 Cup alfalfa meal

    1/4 Cup kelp meal 

    1/2 Cup calcitic lime

    1/4 Cup dolomite lime

    1/2 Cup gypsum standard grade (ground chunchy)

    1/2 Cup Garders Gold dust gypsum 

    1 1/2 Cup basalt Rock Dust 

    1 Cup bone meal

    1/2 Cup insect frass

    1/4 Cup Humic acid

    1/2 Cup (malted barley blended as fine as possible)

    1/4 Cup Soft Rock Phosphate.

     

    This is quite a heavy mix but its what it takes to get those numbers up, so only water and inoculation will do for a while. I will be doing a check at what needs to be purchased and update accordingly, I'll be mixing about 100L which is easy enough as it will only require 1 decent size tote, I might consider splitting it up in 2 for easy of mixing and better consistency. 

    Give me some time to get the ball rolling asseblief 😄 but I'm keen to have the soil mixed and cooking by the end of the weekend. 

    I'm excited to have the changes made above and see how this new recipe results.

    :-trip LEKKE!

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Yea looks good to me, similar to my own just differs on ratios and one or 2 ingredients, I think that will get you through veg and maybe until early flower, I do believe you will have to top dress again tho, hard to tell without "reading" the plants, but will be a good read to find out. Keep us updated 

    • Like 2
  14. 1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

    I know my first issue was time. From growing one or two plants outdoor for a couple years I realised having one harvest each year of around 400g of midgrade was not satisfying my needs. 

    got my first setup couple years ago, went into harvesting around 300-350g of higher grade stuff twice a year... seemed to be enough for like 2 years. had a few fluctuations still getting to know the ropes, ran out of weed many times, wasn't a big decision to get a second tent cause I always wanted to grow more than I could smoke. started growing more outdoor again, but focusing on indoor and as soon as the space, money and time was right I got the second setup for a perpetual grow and get 4 cycles a year. one harvest was just under 400g, but they're mostly in the area of 350g which I am happy with, but quality can always go up so constantly looking for that new new lol. 

    finally not running out anymore, my biggest issue - solved ✅ 

    🤠

    Yea getting that 2nd tent really helps, I grew with one tent for many years, and once I got a 2nd one it helped me up my harvests, the best thing is let's say you have 8 plants in veg, clone them just before they go into the flower tent, and you can have anther 8+ exact copies in the veg room ready to go into the flower tent by they time you harvest those already in the flower tent , all we do is keep the rotation going, we saving time by skipping the germination /seedling phase and we save on seeds and it takes out the guess work if you cloning because you working with what you already have. It's a win win. A 2nd tent is a game changer 

    • Agree 2
  15. 1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

    Yeah I have been using a lot of the kushmans chiropractics lately aswell, works well. 🤠

    if you don't mind me asking, is this just to reduce recovery time or would you say it's a do or die thing? 

    if it's a matter of space sometimes you have to top low and I have topped right when the first set of 3 finger leaves show with no problem at all, they just take a few days longer to recover. you can make a bonsai out of a cannabis plant and top and train it however you like. 

    our guy, righteoussower here has one plant in a huge open tent, he got space for days and don't have to shove a bunch of plants in next to eachother, so he can open that girl up and make her do all kinds of things in there to fill the space. kinda look at a big cannabis plant as a bonsai in a big pot that you never have to root trim. make a whole 1000 top sites off one stem. the lower he goes with that girl the wider he can make her and the more side shoots the more surface area covered when opened up.

    Yes to reduce stress, infact there's no rule to topping, you can top as early as you see the first nodes, but it's common for seedlings to take a long time to recover if done to early and in some cases I've seen seedlings get stunted to a halt completely. 5/6 nodes or even at a later stage eliminates the recovery time and almost never stunts the plant to a degree you might aswel replace it, I just don't worry much about topping early as I used 2. Mostly because I only do it once in the plants life so I just let it grow until I'm comfortable to top as much as I need or FIM that one time. The rest is multiple supper croppings

    • Like 3
  16. Topping should only occur when theres 5/6 nodes. It's not really necessary to top so early you can do with LST. I don't even top until mid veg now a days, I hardly LST anymore. All I do is top / FIM depanding on genetics and how the plants growing, than alot of super cropping in combination with Kush man's chiropractic 

    • Like 1
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