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GGG

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Posts posted by GGG

  1. Hi@Popcoen, as advised the panel heaters is way more efficient than the element heaters, I put my panel heater just behind my oscillating and the cold intake air behind the heater, I think it helps to move the warm air around better before the warm air gets sucked out

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  2. I was thinking of 
    Big Bhuddas Automatic 
    Hulkberry Autoflowering 
    Both are apparently easy to grow + Autoflowering. Anyone grown these? 
    Should be fine in greenhouse and outdoor when larger I'm hoping. I'll put in pots and bring in on cold nights 
    What province are you from if I may

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  3. I did a grow with two 250L totes with a scrog over both ( to big I know but going to do a second run in the soil) one had 3 x 35cm plants and the other one had 6 x 20cm plants and yields was simular.

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    Eish, not 250L......150L totes

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  4.  
    A tote does not offer much space. I managed to grow 1 auto in a double stack tote but lost all my main colas to bud rot. 
    20200113_204711.thumb.jpg.a14e27b98e0581fb0ab2fb5a76f310ff.jpg
    A very rewarding experience nonetheless...
    I did a grow with two 250L totes with a scrog over both ( to big I know but going to do a second run in the soil) one had 3 x 35cm plants and the other one had 6 x 20cm plants and yields was simular.

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  5. I have dabbled with Jiffys, Rock wool and Eazi plugs(these are the best). When I use rock wool I soak/rinse them in PH5 once or twice until the water they in are about PH 5,5-5,8 and then usually they good to go and better than Jiffys for me, but yeah as said above they hold water espesially at the bottom part and over water them can happen when just checking top part.

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  6. I also do the 350ml foam cup method, as seedling gets bigger it drinks more and it might dry out abit quicker. That living soil holds water nice also. I punch alot of small holes at bottom side of cup and underneath to hopefully promote a little root pruning and get my root ball going earli on, you can go 2+weeks in the cup. Did you get the amendments also for the soil?

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    • Agree 1
  7. I Agree, rather save and get proper QB , they last a long time, they give the right spektrum and intensity to plants, they run cool. My 1st priority when setting up a grow space is proper Lights.

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  8. Hi guys, I have used F1 a couple of time and mainly with Green House Powder feeding and done RDWC with GHE also, for me these two nutrient line are simular, when I did run into problems with F1 it was mostly because I didn't bump the tap water to 0,2-3 EC with Calsium Nitrate from Horti mix, when I had a def/tox problem due to not bumping I flushed with 1EC (mostly problem was in flower) and PH 5,7, like said above I'll put in 1-2 liters and wait so all the coco in the pot gets wet to dissolve any concentrated nutes and then flush again with 3liters, then il flush again the next day and then skip a day and then again. Mostly I didn't know what was wrong but that fixed the problem, after that I can feed 1,8-2 EC from the week 4 and il even go to 2,5 but the main thing was at that high EC is to keep medium moist, any drying out will solidify the nutes and the the pH in medium gets to high ( hope my words make sense).
    When's that fixed the problem il play with PH between 5,7-5,9.
    Also I first mix nutes properly in bucket then check and adjust PH then wait and check PH again after 30, I check ph again before next feeding because it tends to differ the next time abit due to temps variables in the grow space, I keep my bucket in grow space, to cold outside tent and don't think plants like the cold water when the medium is grow temps.
    Hope my experience helps a bit, so we learn together.

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