Jump to content

Not Light Bleach


DeltaLabs
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok, this baby had a very Long Journey.

I was very convinced the discoloration i saw at the tops was light bleach, mainly because i was pushing it to find the limits.

So, any ideas on what may have caused this, some sort of deficiency perhaps, Note that this baby has been harvested, i just want a better understanding so i can avoid future similar problems.

Got any spanners left uncle Reaf? 

 

20150318_115138_zpskyun5kcu.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spootch

Yoh delta I'm having the same exact problem! Interested to find out? Do you mind if I post a pic in here of my plant because I

def think I've got bleaching ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, that was one of the big questions marks indeed. Acording to my notes here, i was ph`ing it with swiming pool ph test kit. Was at about 7 after nutes, so added lemon drops to bring it down to 6. This episode, by the way, sparked me into rush buying the ph and ec pens, and been using since then. those pool kits are useless for a grower.

Other factor on this baby was the water, she has been fed tap water from seed to week1 of flowering, my tap water comes out at 350ppm, and by week 2 of flowering i had the Ro system running, so i switched to RO+ca/mg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say its the RO water..

 

Ive had many problems with using RO water, in many different locations. when I cut out the RO system all my problems were sorted, but thats only if you have all your other ducks in a row...

 

Ive used tap water since I started growing and it been perfectly fine. 

 

If you want you can leave the reservoir open for 24 hrs for the Chlorine to evaporate or put a airstone to speed that process up, then just use  water. add your nutes and ph..

 

:-peace

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just want to start by saying when I talk I talk stricly organic , hydro is another story I just don't follow.

 

What I am seeing her is a lot of little things that I feel actually added up to your problem. RO water in organics is bad.... The whole process of making RO water actually removes a lot of minerals and things the plant needs as well as a very low ph , if memory serves well its around 6 or just below? I have always used bubbled tap water as it will always roughly be the same ph after bubbling

 

Personally  I feel you had ph lockout , in organics I always find it best to let the medium do the ph buffering.. why I say this is if you add the fact you used RO water , added lemon juice to adjust ph and I presume you didn't use lime to buffer the medium. All these things will do is cause a swing in the medium. Consistently  is key to growing , a plant will cope just fine in 6ph but if you then add fluctuations from watering it will cause issues.

 

I also have another theory and this is my own personal theory ...

I have probably had every problem known to cannabis growing and a few that weren't  that I had to figure out myself. I have also seen this theory of light bleaching come up more and more lately. We all know that if we put our plants close to our lights they grow faster and better which we all want right. You then get the guy that does it and gets the problems with yellowing on top , moves the plant further away and the problem goes away , light bleaching must be the answere to the problem..... no I personally don't think it is.

This is were my theory comes in. You move your plant up and it grows faster but what if your root ball can't handle the extra load put on the plant with the new growth , if you think about it how would a plant display this problem ? It would steal nutrients from it's other leaves to compensate , it would produce yellow leaves on top as it's not getting enough N , it may also show other issues that may  Appear to be lockout . Feeding won't fix the problem as the root ball still won't brought able to cope. They only solution is to move the light and let the plants growth slow down to the same lvl as the root ball can handle , this is whyvibfeel this problem is always put down to light bleaching ...... just my theory

 

But in your case  I feel it was a slight ph issue , RO and lemon juice doesn't belong in an organic grow. If you always trying to adjust ph in organic you will pick up problems. In veg you can deal with it in flower you want it to be perfect as this is were it counts . By the time you put your ladies into flower all they should be needing as a weekly feed and training.... that's all.

 

Cheers

Reaf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spootch

my yellowing on new growth has stopped so not from the light then also using RO water and calmag in coco with nutriplex everything looking fine, thanks delta for the half hijack lol

 

very interesting stuff about R/O water tho

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say its the RO water..

 

Ive had many problems with using RO water, in many different locations. when I cut out the RO system all my problems were sorted, but thats only if you have all your other ducks in a row...

 

Ive used tap water since I started growing and it been perfectly fine.

 

If you want you can leave the reservoir open for 24 hrs for the Chlorine to evaporate or put a airstone to speed that process up, then just use  water. add your nutes and ph..

 

:-peace

Must agree with this as well. I started using Oasis RO water and only experienced problems. Couldn't kick a N deficiency no matter how high I went in strength.  As soon as I went back to tap water my plants looked sorted again!

 

While on this sort of subject matter, what's your guys opinion on using filtered rainwater? As in collect rainwater, filter it with a coffee filter and use it on my plants.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Maxwell

Nothing wrong with R/O except the price. Tap water is ideal because it helps us out a little, R/O has pretty much nothing and so if your nutes/pH is off, then it is a problem. Tap water has a fair amount of excess useless salts though and choloramine is becoming common, which cannot be bubbled away. In this case I side with Reaf's theory about the distribution of energy due to increased light, couple it with a pH pocket and I recon that's about as good as you'll get. As Reaf says, don't bother adjusting your water pH for organics, R/O water is fine IMO because your soil is doing the work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@4207365, thank you, i also believe the swing in water content might have had something to do with it, i will not return to tap water tho, as my water here is far from ok to drink. I have started a new grow from seed with Ro water and have seen a lot of improvements, a lot of other factors also came into play aswell,  but surely my water is dirty compared to SA water.  I will be doing some hydro experiments very soon, as this is the only time in the year my temps will allow it.

 

@Reaf, i think u are right when u say it was there was a lot of little issues snowballing, and surely i was not on top of things, was still getting my head around all of it.

Certainly a ph issue,  causing a lockout seems quite plausible, and your theory ... on how my observation and actions led me to believe it was bleaching was just poetry.

 

Thanks to 1 great Post  in this forum, now i have prepared a much richer mix, from flushing and buffering the coco, with a few amendments, one of wich is Lime. i went 1/2 recommended dose on all of them, cooked to my best knowledge for a month and Voila, i am seeing amazing results, compared to last run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...