oldsandals

Hey. Thanks I will download that and check it out. 

Seeds come built in with about 2 weeks of nutrients stored in their first leaves called cotyledons, so they will grow regardless. But using some seagro which is an acidic fish emulsion will work fine to add the nutrients that are missing from your mix. Always start with 30% of the label dosage and work your way up to stronger doses as you see the plants coping. Quite often these labels ask you to use way too strong of dilution.

That's s very cool light meter!

I'm not sure which root starter you added but coco/perlite/bonemeal will not be enough basic nutrients for the plant to grow healthy. You can use that mix you made but I would add either compost which you can find anywhere, or worm castings which is better but harder to find. You want to have about 70% your mix to 30% compost/worm castings. You also should add some dolomite lime to it for cal mag, this is also easy to find. Then you will have a decent mix and will have some success.

 

The biggest mistake new growers make is to have a heavy growing medium that doesn't drain well and then over watering the plants. With your medium drainage will be fine. Water every 3-4 days.

For when the plants are growing without making buds this is called the vegetative stage. During this time they need 18-24 hours of light per day to stay in this phase. When the plant is big enough you can switch the amount of dark and light to 12/12 and it will trigger the plant to flowering mode and it will start to make buds. Fast plants will take about 8 weeks flowering to finish. Slower plants usually up to 14 weeks unless you got landrace genetics then it can go indefinitely long some times.

Another way to do it would be with plain coco and bottle nutrients specialized for coco grows. As you learn you will find your way.

Good luck!

Day 10 flowering photoperiod for the DurLumbo #2 and #6, and I have added their sister, the #3, its her first day in flowering period.

 

#2

 

 

#6

 

 

#3

Wow those are looking really great!

 

Hope you dont mind me posting this for anyone that wants to try

Thanks for the heads up

Cambodia

Gypsy Nirvana - khmer gold

Jamaica

Blue Mountain

Lambsbread

 

Papua New Guinea

Hello folks. I'd like to see if there are any other sativa/landrace/heirloom lovers here. The weed that sends your mind on a trip while leaving your body in tact and sometimes giving energy. For me this type of high has anti depressant qualities and soothing on my psyche over long time periods - my "medicine". 

This topic is for discussion of pure sativa and almost pure sativa, anything knowingly hybrid with indica or high CBD plants is off topic. CBD is the enemy of a trip high. 

Thin leafed sativa landraces or heirloom plants are found mostly in the equatorial regions of the world from around 15° north and south of the equator. Its also thought that high altitudes can play a part in evolving thin leaved plants. I have found from my personal travels in southern Africa that coastal humid areas seem to have more thin leafed plants than inland areas. Since I live in a humid area myself, its tough to try and grow the inland plants here out of their climate because they are susceptible to powdery mildew. 

The popular thin leaf growing regions of the world are best separated into large areas sharing similar plant traits for eg. Thailand/Cambodia/Laos/Vietnam plants are very similar and share many common traits. Mexico/Panama/Guatemala/Honduras plants also very similar. Going further south in the Americas to Peru/Columbia/Brazil you start to see the change to broader leaf plants but its hard to get good examples of plants from these regions because cartels have been importing genetics since the 70s. There are quite a few isolated Columbian sativa that are pure that people have managed to keep around, but in the case of Brazil, I have yet to see one legitimate landrace sativa from there and its all "Crip" basically landrace x modern stuff. 

I guess this wouldn't be complete without some pics of the skinny girls. Here are some pics from other sativa growers, some friends of mine, some not. 

Durban

Tropical Seeds co "70s" Durban (from 2009 JHB import)

Dutch Passion circa 2000 selected for narrow leaf over some generations

Locally collected

 

Malawi

Balaka Village collected

Green hornet seeds

Mulanje

Afropips

* Will update with pics when can find them *

Transkei / Ciskei

Herbaria

* Will update with pics when can find them *

Tropical Seeds co

Lesotho

Mapoteng town collected

 

Swaziland

 

Congo

 

Senegal

Tropical seeds co

Angola

Vibes collective

Central African Republic

Vibes collective

Nigeria

* Will update with pics when can find them *

Ghana

Jah Green Label

Ethiopia

ACE/MustaFunk - Ethiopian highland

Mauritius

Vibes Collective

Reunion Island

French Touch seeds Zamal Mango Carrot

 

French Touch seeds Zamal K1 Kalite Tizane

Gypsy Nirvana Zamal

Thai

Real Seed Company - Hmong hill tribe

Real Seed Company - Ko Chang

Gypsy Nirvana - Thai stick

Laos

BLB

Luang Prabang

Vietnam

Vietnam Black

 

Mexico

CannaBioGen Oaxaca 1979

Panama

Cannabiogen 1974 Panama red

Honduras

Ace seeds

 

Columbia

Cannabiogen Punto Rojo

Landrace Team Punto Rojo

Venezuela

Looking good! I love seeing how our SA sun kisses those girls. 

My organic soil mix, developed over about 10 years of side by side tests. I'm from KZN so the sources are found closest to me here that I have added. 

 

Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following core ingredients:

400 litres of flushed expanded coco coir. Always flush more than you think you need to... (coco helps with the cation exchange capacity and adds a sponge effect to the medium allowing moisture to be spread out more equally, i use this coco)

300 litres of perlite. (along with the coco this is the main source of storing oxygen in the medium, i get mine from here or here)

150 litres of quality moist black worm castings. (The main component of the nutrients for the mix come from the worm castings, it is broad spectrum NPK and micronutrients, i get mine from here or here)

150 litres of quality compost. (if contains manure - use only 20% or lower manure content, can be mushroom compost or wood chips + manure etc. i get mine from here)

 

Per 1000 litres mix you will need the following amendments:

500g of Talbourne Organics 2-3-2 (I use this as the main source of phosphorous instead of bone meal but it has all NPK and micro nutrients also. Very good product. Get the non pelleted version, their website)

2kg of Dolomite lime (main source of calcium and magnesium while also stabilizing pH, can get it at most nurseries or garden shops)

1kg of Rock dust (Turbo grow - source of micro nutrients)

1kg of Diatomaceous earth (the silica breaks down over time adding strength to plant cell structures, making stems stronger and leaves glossy. i get mine here)

200g of Cricket frass (contains high amount of calcium carbonate and iron, i get mine here)

 

Liquid feeds that work well with this mix:

Fish emulsion (Seagro brand has very low pH which is useful to bring down tap water that is higher than 6.5pH)

Seaweed extract (The auxins and cytokinins help to de-stress plants and give life back to stunted or shocked plants, can increase internode lengths and delay onset of flowering)

Biobizz bloom (I don't really use this anymore but can be useful to boost flowering plants without adding nitrogen)

Biobizz grow (contains mostly fermented sugar beets and molasses, good to feed the soil microbes in light dilutions)

Biobizz fish mix (pH corrected fish emulsion with molasses, I prefer to use the Seagro brand for the acidity)

 

This mix is not a super soil so depending on the container or hole size that you use for a single plant, you may need to add liquid feed after 4-5 weeks of growth to support hungry plants, but you will be not adding much since majority of the nutrients are in the soil. Keeping the pH between 5.9 and 6.6 seems to have best results. Feed plants only plain water for about three weeks prior to harvest for the cleanest best tasting end product. 

 

Edit: to answer OP's question of reusing soil. I think that a proper made organic soil gets better over time because the larger particle sizes are broken down over time by the microbes and are more available to the plant for uptake. But I generally do add a bit of worm castings + dolomite lime + talbourne 2-3-2 for reusing the same soil that has grown plants in already, guessing how much is a bit of an art. My soil that I am using now has been grown in about 10 times and still very good. 

Due to the big possibility of failure with these genetics to provide decent medicine, I like to call them research varieties. And I only plant a few each year from different batches. Right now I have going some old Swazi from early 2000s and some inland Transkei lime greens. I like to make notes on the morphological traits of the plants and compare to others from similar close areas. Most importantly to identify modern genetic pollution or varieties that were originally derived from hemp and have little use as drug plants.

I keep a bunch of southern african stuff but its p1 stuff so it needs to be pheno hunted and inbred for a few generations to clean up the bad traits and improve chances of finding the good types. This will be the case for most landrace stuff that you find, unless someone's already done the work for you. 

Some stuff I've looked at over the years:

Durban - seedbanks, collection valley of 1000 hills, collection Durban CBD taxi rank.

Swazi - many imports, seedbanks, collection JHB, collection Swaziland Piggs Peak casino, collection Durban.

Malawi - many imports, some seed bank, collection balaka village.

Transkei - collection coastal lime green, inland lime green, red, gold, seedbank (ciskei).

Limpopo - collection Polokwane.

Drakensburg - seedbank, collection Himeville.

Natal midlands - collection Rosetta.

Zululand - collection Nkwaleni valley.

Umkhomaas valley - collection.

Probably more I'm not remembering, I'd have to dig in the fridge to make a full list. If anyone out there likes the African sativa and wants to chat or share let me know, I have a huge passion for these type of plants.

 

Awesome! Whats going to be your starting inoculant? Worm Castings? I find that AACT takes some getting used to, and over brewed teas not so good. I'm not a tea expert though, but done it enough. 

Hi all

I'm going to put some pics up here of some Durban x Columbian plants that I kept from cuttings of the last round of seed pops. They have just been put to flowering photoperiod this afternoon and should take about 12 weeks to finish.

#2

 

#6

 

If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer. 

Congrats @CreX 

In my experience it makes the buds decarboxylated some what because you can chew on some matured cob and it will give an effect, so there must be decarbed cannabinoids in there. Smoking cob is smoother than jar cured and I think because it does a better job at degrading chlorophyll. The taste of jar cured is more preserved than cob, however the high is similar when smoked. The differences come when eaten or chewed plain. 

Lovely, Tangwena is a friend of mine. I'm busy growing his Malawi x Swazi. He would be proud to see some new cobs being made in Africa because of his technique he popularized. Its actually changed quite a bit since he has been developing it and he no longer uses corn cob and its done inside vacuum sealed bags now. He used to call this 'canary bud' because it would give him an indication of how the bud is doing inside the corn husks that he prepared at the same time, but then realized that the canary bud was just as good with less fuss involved.  

On 6/1/2020 at 1:48 PM, SkunkPharm said:

True Living Organics by The Rev

Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis

Teaming with Nutrients by Jeff Lowenfels

 

By these recommends, I can see that you know your 'shit' and have been in organics for a while, respect! I grew out Black Forrest from The Rev about 10 years back and its still in my mind - that vietblack is stellar. 

Check the vid I posted for peroxide bath. 

Nice looking! What kind of smells?

3 hours ago, TheUltimateNoob said:

Do you have a thread on that jar tek you're doing?

Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
 

I have been lurking in the r/rosin of reddit and learnt this tek there in bits and pieces but this video I found sums it up pretty much. 

You basically want to give a heat treatment and then let it sit on a warm surface for a few days and then you should start to see crystals growing. I've seen some huge ones grown in sauce. 

Aha I think the starting product I tried with must have been too saucy and not "budder" enough. It was a sativa type that I attempted with, possibly need to do with more waxy indica type bud. Currently trying jar tek to make THCA crystals by raising heat in the glass over some days. I'm getting some nucleation so its beginning

Maybe Sean would like to also explain the process to make THCA by multiple squishes, I tried his tek twice and didn't get any results. 

I got my press from http://www.rosinpress.co.za/ last year. The guy who makes them was quite late with my order but it came eventually and works as advertised. My fav way to press with this is to squish water bubble hash at 60C through 37 micron bags - 1 minute pre press and then 2 minutes squish at about 80%-90% pressure. For the occasional flower squish I use 80C with a 160 micron bag - 1 minute pre press and then 3 minutes squish at ~95% pressure. Water hash rosin is better quality than the flower rosin but I like them both. Flower rosin pucks need to be used after to make edibles or tincture to prevent the usual high losses with pressing flower. The hash pucks don't have much left afterwards in comparison. 

Lovely spears man! I bet that bud gives a good kick!