MrE

Fyi, located a second hand one on the cheap. Yay.

And As long as your light is in the 3500K - 3000K arena, your readings are going to be pretty accurate. People with iPhones can use the Photone app. For Android phones with actual lux sensors and not newer ones that now use the front camera as a light sensor, the apps PPFD Meter and Tent Buddy can be used with decent accuracy if you go to a lot of effort to get average readings.

Yep, that particular product, same sensor in the Bluetooth version and the separated sensor version.

More accurate PAR readings. Check out the Migro YouTube channel. He calibrated it to an SQ500.

Cape Town - second hand totally fine.

Upgraded from 9.5l pots to 20l. Correction: All Auto. DS: Creme De La Soul (FF + a little Magic Rabbit Compost) (feminised) CDxCDS: Chemdawg x Creme De La Soul (FF + a little Magic Rabbit Compost) (feminised) CDxCDS FF: as above but straight FF (feminised) (planted a week later, so smallest, the rest are a similar age) CDSxBC: Creme De La Soul x Blood Cake (regular)(Edit: male, so the young man has to leave unf) In any case, what a wonderful feeling to be starting over again!

20l. Bit big for my tent, need to try find some 15l's.

I don't know if switching from 24/0 to 18/6 caused the twins to start preflower, maybe combined with suddenly receiving correctly PHd water, or if they just naturally start this early, but whatever, they look much healthier. *Illuminati confirmed.

Just phenomenal work. Love your cooling setup. Top notch.

Hehe, I gotcha dude. Sorry about blabbing. I'm sure it's probably super annoying. Gotta control that.

Curse you!! Don't get my OCD started again! Hehe. To go nerd mode for a sec, more than 4-5% can start to cause unwanted stem elongation, which can then be controlled by adding more blue, but since increasing blue (going only by the study I've seen, Dr Bruce) showed no measurable increase in THC/CBD, combined with the fact that Far Red diodes are far less efficient. Oh and also they artificially raise leaf temperature, which, I feel, is not ideal in warmer climates and especially warmer climates without AC. Oh, and the gap in the middle makes use of the properties of an aray, light spill from either side combining to increase the overall par intensity inbetween. The gap also divides the hot spot in the cooling system and moves the heat to where it is best maintained. At the same time, that spreads the light to the edges, where it's needed the most. PPE may slightly decrease, but Usable PPFD increases slightly, and that means the light is provided in a controlled, even way to where you want it, the canopy.

Cleaned it up.

Loving this.

From the Integrating Sphere test. 3351K overall colour temp. Seed to Harvest. CRI: 86.8. Using IS data in Cocoforcannabis.com calculator(Total PPFD), Estimated Usable PPFD 579umol. Efficiency: 2.41umol/w. Coverage 8.9 sq ft / 0.83 sq m. So up to a 1mx1m tent if you're not too concerned with the drop off on the edges. Perhaps locally, Mars Hydro FC3000 is a better choice for 1mx1m if you're looking to maximise 100% canopy and push higher light levels. IF everything comes together, I'll diversify and add more powerful units with increased diode count. But that's for enthusiasts wanting to have the headroom to push CO2 etc. This is a medium powered light for average growers like myself, and I would think the majority of people. Who want to save money on Elec, provide as close to 800umol across most of the canopy as possible(at the correct hanging height), be able to keep temps in check in tents from 60x60cm and all the way up. PPFuv: 1.90 - PPFb: 82.54 - PPFg: 249.19 - PPFr: 251.33 - PPFfr: 17.44 If I break that down it's: 12.3% Blue | 37.2 Green | 37.5 Red, with the remainder on either side of 400nm and 700nm respectively. Since Dr Bruce Bugbee of Utah State University has shown that green penetrates leaves and canopies more deeply than any other colour, sharing the energy with the lower material, my goal was to provide enough blue to keep compact in veg (6-7% minimum) and then maximise the boost in red and green equally, to best capture the positive attributes that each part of the spectrum provides.

Ok so maybe I was cooking a few spots a little, turns out 10-15cm for flower is far more optimum. Will teach me to be too confident when you get your values through cellphone lux to par conversion sites. Only good for approximation really, still super handy. If that seed pops it'll be my first photo. 1 has already failed and this is my last seed. Tried to prevent heat from the outside by stuffing squares of white, fluffy insulation, and then sheets of of white paper masking taped over that, ran out of materials, still, maybe it'll help a bit. That 20l fabric pot is what I'll transplant into if the photo lives, change from trusty 9.5ls. I've been adding old soil from harvested plants or really badly stunted growth plants that I've aborted. Current temp: 26.6. I'm lucky considering it's an enclosed, small garage room. I think air might slowly creep in the two exit doors when both closed, as it doesn't vary wildly. But then it's only a 80x80cm. Still on 8/10 on dimmer, it keeps the temps where I want them, which I think is most critical. A good balance.

It's an ultra cheap Mapex, but I had a Gibraltar that was stolen along with all my other mostly Gibraltar hardware. That's my silent as possible kick, snare, hihat practise station. Don't get me started about gear. Thanks man, hardly, but growing is my therapy. Excited to have somewhat manageable temps now.

I had to fight to use this space, as it's communal to some degree. It's a long, boring story. It's actually just a space utilisation issue. I can store stuff underneath, tending to the plants is easier, less bending down, it's sort of less underfoot for people using the rest of the garage. Driver etc. on top of tent, keep extra heat furthest away from fresh air intake. Actually, theoretically, having the tent on the ground would place intake vents where the coldest air in most rooms is, at the bottom. Although, how much of a difference, depends on various factors I guess. Probably negligible if it's only a short distance. It's so much more of a pleasure to work in, personally. I love it!

It's a tight fit, but MAN was it worth the work! Highest temps should be way less harsh.

Yes, but extra light means extra heat, and I've already got a heat issue. I can't afford better ventilation/AC. If you look at the relevant information, you'll see that the possible benefit of all that excess light 1000+ is usually only able to be harnessed by experienced growers. I dunno, I guess I have to disagree with you, if you think a pretty freshly hatched plant needs much more than around 400. The middle two are getting more because they're closer to the light, around 575. The top bud, if you look at the pics, is only about 2cm taller than the rest of the canopy. So I'm super stoked with between 700-800 for my canopy at this early stage of flower. I've grown autos on all variations of lighting schedules, and have never personally noticed a difference. I dim the lights and do 24hrs for the convenience atm. I'm not making any claims. During shedding when on different schedules, there were often 2x periods of darkness per day, one of course, random (whether or not this could cause an auto to go into flower early was a concern, is it valid, not entirely sure). Running 24, it's one less variable I have to worry about. Do I want to change back to 20/4-18/6 and save some cash, deffo. Would I just go back to 24h when shedding kicks in, yes, so I leave it there for now. I appreciate the concern tho! Edit: Ok you've convinced me, going back to 18/6!!

I've never grown a photo. But I've run out of auto seeds, so next 2x will be photo, as they're the only ones left. From all the credible sources I've ever read, every single one says above 1000 requires CO2 and nutrients and environment to be on point. https://www.migrolight.com/learn-grow-lighting-basics/ That's just not my particular type of fun. Besides, I don't have AC, and it regularly goes above 30 in the space I have to grow in, so I couldn't even if I wanted to. Hopefully be able to move downstairs in the future, bit cooler.

I'm talking about umols as in PAR/PPFD. I don't need much more than 800 because I don't supplement CO2. It is the maximum my situation requires. I also run them 24h, since I can't plan for shedding, so just go for it. Yes, that's why I explained that it's 400 on the edge, just under/level with the youngest plant, which is in veg. 22cm further away(vertically) from the 800 reading. Yup, sometimes leaves can be a bit droopy, I don't know what else to say about that one

Highest reading at the top cola (8cm from light) is approx 800umol (PPFD), and down on the edge, just under the twins is approx 400 umol (30cm from light). 8/10 on the dimmer.

It's been awesome having temps under 30c for extended periods of time. Super excited for colder weather.