Trichome

Thanks yeah that’s more or less what I figured! Main thing is I just don’t want too much N available in flower. I read about growers transplanting into fresh soil the same as they used for veg and never reported issues but being a synthetic fert guy myself except for two organic soil grows usually I would avoid too much N in flower like the plague especially since this soil I’m guessing is designed fir a fairly lengthy veg time and then flowering with some amendments .Guess I don’t have much choice anyway as I don’t want to go the liquid fert route with this grow unless it’s to correct a deficiency! Appreciate the input!

I’m looking for some advice on something I’ve never done before. I’ve started some feminized Indicas indoors and plan on moving them outdoors to flower as electricity cost is too high for me to complete the grow indoors.So right now the plants are in 2 liter fabric bags with Orgasoilux super soil and will be transplanted to either 15 or 20 liter fabric bags and given supplemental lighting to extend the veg period by a week or so. My question is this.Since I will be transplanting into a much bigger volume of fresh soil and flowering quite soon afterwards,won’t the soil have too much Nitrogen for flowering?The reason I ask this is because much of the available N will not have been ‘used up’ by the time flowering is initiated.I should add that this soil has been sitting unused in the bags since my last outdoor grow 15 months ago so nutrients have probably broken down nicely by now. Maybe I’m overthinking this I don’t know!

I am indeed using the TA,I started with Canna but didn’t like the fact that their N is pretty high and you can’t really adjust it for flower. That’s what I was looking for III_Evan. Are you also in Coco with TA nutes? Sounds like it!

Here’s one for you experienced coco growers.How would you handle changing the nutrient ratio from grow to bloom or pre bloom in 20L hand watered fabric grow bags with a 70/30 coco perlite mix? It’s a huge volume to change! My thoughts were to flush a lot more than usual fertigations through the medium at full strength but maybe a more gradual approach would be better? Obviously this is much easier in soil where you have dry down periods whereas coco is usually 90% saturated most of the time thereby diluting anything different ratio wise.

That’s entirely possible! I did flush about a week ago with a weak nute solution when I had the light burn on the tips.I thought it was a lock out. I figured the weak solution would’ve washed out by now after 14 fertigations at over 1.2ec. I’m using Canna Coco pro plus,it’s supposed to be quite aggressively buffered but I guess it’s always possible a batch slipped through with no buffering.I did have to fight a magnesium deficiency in the seedling stage!

Thanks,that makes sense.I’m guessing these plants must be really hungry!

This is my first indoor grow with Coco.Plants are in week three of veg in 2.5L fabric bags.Using Canna Coco nutes at EC 1.2 at two fertigations per day approximately 10 hours apart. Plants are looking pretty good after trial and error getting my 630watt bar type led at the correct height.They were getting too much light at 300 umols with yellow tips on new growth. Thankfully I realised after searching online what was happening and dimmed the light appropriately. So my issue is that although my plants look pretty good the growth is a bit slow.I have noticed every time I check runoff it is always much lower than my inflow.Going in at 1.25 EC and coming out at .44 Any coco growers with experience out there care to offer your thoughts?

Just noticed I replied to a year old post!

Are you using perlite in your Coco/mix? I’m using coco in bags too and at the moment they are staying fairly wet towards the bottom.Mainly because temps have been lower and the plants are not transpiring much! Also I think the water/fert column moves slowly down by gravity just like any container,you just don’t see it in a rigid container. as long as you have enough drainage in your medium you should be fine.I do a 60/30 coco perlite mix and once the roots are coming out the bottom they dry fairly quickly.

Well thanks again to all who responded with great information on this thread.I have learned a ton from all of you about soil growing outdoors,I don’t think I’ll ever go back to Hydro but I still may combine some synthetic with organic now and then. .I’m happy to say my plants;two Jack Herer,two Super Skunk and two Durban Poison are coming along nicely and some will be ready for harvest in about three weeks and some longer.I don’t think I grew these plants to anywhere near their true genetic potential but having said that I think the yield will be respectable considering my container sizes! Here’s a pic from today of the most mature of my two Jack Herer plants.

Weskush Makes sense,thank you.

This is only for people who are running the biobizz schedule, a lot of people using super soil or ammended soil can't really use these steps as it might cause more problems than anythingThis is only for people who are running the biobizz schedule, a lot of people using super soil or ammended soil can't really use these steps as it might cause more problems than anything @Naughty.Psychonaut I think what you said here is key but since I was seeing signs of deficiency before ever starting the Biobizz I put it down to the reasoning that my roots had completely filled the medium and had depleted the soil.I think not having more space for the roots and thereby access to more nutrients is what caused me to run into a situation where I had to move fast.Adding a top dressing would be too slow to fix anything I think even if I had some compost tea or whatever! Thanks again for all your help.I definitely have some good information to digest! This way of growing is a learning curve but It’s starting to sink in! I’ve come to the conclusion that the super soil route is definitely not for small grows in small containers. I’m thinking very big fabric bags next time around and all living soil grow in spring

If any of you guys are still checking in on this thread It’d be great to hear opinions on the two main ‘super soil’ blends on the market from those with experience using them.At some point I’d like to try my hand at making my own soil but only when I understand the estimated break down of various amendments in the soil and time frame of availability to the plant better.

@ Naughty Psychonaut Thanks for the detailed info.I do think maybe part of my problem is I’ve been letting my soil get too dry between watering.In doors in potting soil with synthetic nutes I always used to let them get nice and dry between watering and then water with about 20%run off just before they started to wilt.Obviously this ‘living soil’ deal is quit a bit different.I’m definitely gun shy now when it comes to using bottled organic nutrients.It seems obvious to me now that plenty of soil and careful,measured watering is the way to go and also to only use the bottled stuff when the plant shows signs of needing nutrients. I loved the Freedom farms seedling mix as my seedlings did so well in it!

Guys thanks a lot for the information and taking the time to reply. I do know the basics as I have quite a lot of experience in hydro and inert soil mediums using liquid nutes indoors.As mentioned this is my first outdoor organic/ living soil grow and I obviously have a lot to learn so I am open to any and all lengthy explanations even if I know some of it! I think next time I’ll use some FF mix and concentrate on just feeding the soil as opposed to the roots or I will do a hybrid organic grow using an inert medium like coco coir with Organic liquid nutes.

Prom Thanks for the advice brother,I appreciate it.I think when I hit the plants with the first feeding of Biobizz I probably still had too much Ammendments left in the soil.I think the soil NPK was still too high and I went and put fertilizer on top of that. actually the first issues started with the Biobizz nutes and not the synthetic.

Naughty.Psychonaut thank for answering in detail brother.That’s what I was looking for.So to be clear I am not increasing the Grow from Iml only the Bloom? Also what about the frequency of fertilizer vs water.Do I feed every watering or every second or third?

Hi to all my fellow 420 enthusiasts. I hope to learn and hopefully help someone during my membership!

Prom Using Biogrow Biobloom and Topmax.Very small amount of Aminos and some silicon(very sparing on the silicon privy as it is high k. I’m at week five in the chart but I noticed a pronounced yellowing after feeding even though my roots have basically filled the fabric bags so I’m sure between the root space and the flushing I’ve done most of the original nutrients in the soil must have been flushed out or consumed? I did also hit them once with synthetic nutes about 5 days ago and they improved temporarily I fertilized Monday with 3 ml /L Bio bloom and 2 mlL Biogrow .Last night the fan leaves were looking really sick, clawed down and burned tips progressively yellowing up the plant.So today I flushed the hell out of them with fresh rain water First run off reading was of 1.8 tested today = run off after 10 liters at ph 7.2. Flushed further with Synthetic nutes three part at 650 ppm at adjusted ph of 5.8. Last read after flush EC 1.1 740ppm. The plants were looking better this evening when I took the top view shots.I’ll wait to see how they look in the morning.I will have to let them suck up a lot of the water before I can adjust anything else!

Hi Skunkpharm,it is my first outdoor organic grow.I’m not used to leaves yellowing by two weeks into flour though,these are 9 week strains.I’ve always managed to keep my fan leaves green at least into a week before flush.Granted they are in the beginning of week six now but I started having issues at two weeks into flower already.So you’re saying even that’s normal outdoors? Soon all I’ll have are the bud fans and the sugar leaves! Any tips on Biobizz nutes? Also anyone reading this post- The top pics are in veg right before my fan leaves started with tip burn,as you can see they look really good, shiny green,this at two weeks into veg.At this stage only rain water a bit of fulvic in Orgasoilux.

So I started some feminized seeds in Freedom Farms seed mix and the seedlings grew very well and healthy. Eventually when the seedlings reached vegetative stage I transplanted into 15L fabric bags with Jaime’s Orgasoilux.The plants took off and did really Will until about three weeks in when the fan leaves tips started turning brown.I had heard somewhere this soil mix runs a bit hot so I flushed the plants with about three times the amount of water and let the soil dry out.This helped and at watering time that week I gave them only rain water with a bit of Topmax(fulvic&humic acid).I got taken by surprise when the plants showed flowering(first outdoor grow,I used to do hydro indoors) I decided to let them flower in the 15L bags as I read that the roots air prune and figured I could feed them with the Biobizz nutrients I had on hand! About two weeks into flower plants showed signs of Potassium deficiency with leaf margins and tips turning brown and clawing so I hit the with one ml per L Grow and 1ml per liter Bloom.After two days the plant looked even worse. To cut a story short I’m now in week 6 of flowering with decent buds but have lost most of my big fan leaves and have see sawed back and forth with flushing and applying mild then stronger nutes to try and stop the leaves from yellowing.Basically just trying to keep the plants healthy as possible until flush time. Today the plants leaves(mostly older looked terrible so I did another flush and checked EC/ppm run off with Hanna meter and my ppm was over 1800ppm.So aagain I flushed and re fertilized with 650ppm of Mega solution 3 part synthetic to try and resolve the leaf yellowing issue. some say ppm/EC is meaningless with organic farming! Is it? Can an experienced soul grower here give me some expert guidance on the use of Biobizz nutrients? I’m starting to think their feed chart is way off!Maybe I should have used a quarter strength first but I guess I panicked as I was already two weeks into flowering and as you know time is of the essence in getting a handle on problems at that stage. The largest fan leaves here are much yellower than they appear in the pictures! Thanks guys!