DesignatedDave

Dear Diary,

It's been almost a month since I last posted and a lot has happened and changed.

About a week after I my last post, my indoor plants took a dive, they yellowed out on the new growth like an iron lockout from a PH issue.
Considering these plants were 100% until I went and spent 4 days in cape town and forgot to open the reservoir tap before leaving. That coupled with a 36 hour power outage, a heatwave, 7000+ PPM of co2 and these were screwed. I initially I thought I could save them, but their growth was becoming deformed and I wasn't in the mood for a warped difficult grow, so I decided to trash the entire indoor grow and buy new clones and start over.

So now we have a full ripper seeds grow:

2x Criminal+ (Critical cheese)
2x Gelato x Kmints x Runtz
2x Zombie Bride (Wedding Cake x Zombie Kush)
2x UK Cheese x Zombie Kush

I also decided to switch out my nutrients from Nutriplex (NutriGold) to trying the Gold Label CoCo Nutrients with their Stimulators & Boosters - https://goldlabel.nl/nutrients/ - (I get that it's all just NPK `n shit, but lets give it a run and see, since I don't think there is anyone on this Forum running these nutrients).

I acquired the clones on the 7th November and these are how they are looking today on the Gold Label Nutrients:

Then on the Organic Outdoor side - these plants have been going great and getting big, I am considering changing their pots to 48L pots. I did a defoliation last Saturday and they seem to have recovered nicely.
Still feeding them Biobizz Fish-mix, Calmag, Molasses, Enzymes.

Blueberry Sunset

Chempie x Purple Punch

Zombie Kush

that's it for now.

Hi there and welcome.

OMG I didn't know this topic existed...

17 hours ago, Furbrain said:

Would they work with Coco or would you germ/prop in soil (with air pots) and then plant in Coco afterwards?.

Well recently I been preferring to go with Clones over seeds, it just saves you about a month in growth time.
However yes you could do coco in there as well. For coco I start my seeds off in Jiffy's or glue plugs first and then I plant that into coco once they a bit bigger and have good roots growing.

On 11/12/2022 at 10:45 AM, Furbrain said:

These look interesting !. In soil or Coco would you just keep them moist all the time OR wait until they dry before water....... (like a solo cup)?.  

I use them for seeds in soil, it's nice because it dry's from all directions inwards.

23 hours ago, Prom said:

I look for a TopMax replacement. Somebody has a suggestion? I am willed to run a test to see if it is better. TopMax price is just going up way to much. 

Howsit,

TopMax is just humic acid and fulvic acid combined - check out these two and you'll save a fortune:

Humic Acid - https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/humic-acid

Fulvic Acid - https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/fulvic-acid

 or these guys - 

https://gthydro.co.za/products/277-humic-acid-1liter.html

https://gthydro.co.za/products/309-vulvic-acid-1-liter.html

These are stronger than what's in TopMax, so you only use 2ml/1L of Fulvic Acid & 5ml/1L Humic acid

On the note of the humic acid though, it's recommended to do it as a fortnightly drench but I've used it weekly together with fulvic acid
Stop the humic acid at 3 weeks into flower, Studies have shown that humic acid reduces cannabinoid content (as it makes the plant want to grow rather than flower). Fulvic you can use right through.

Ironically Bio-Heaven is Humic acid and amino acids, so I'm really glad you found a good amino acid replacement without the humic acid in it, I will definitely give that Canna Pro a try.

The plant looks happy to me. From your recent posts I'm getting the impression that you might be micro-managing your plants and possibly over loving them .

These plants really don't need much, especially at this age/size, a little bit of nutrients and water with some good light is all you need.

The leaves will change between different shades of green throughout the grow and this is because the plant will be shift movable nutrients around the plant and that does impact leaf color.
movable nutrients are things like Nitrogen (N), Magnesium (Mg), Phosphorous (P), Potassium (K), and Nickel (Ni). 

It's only really a cause for concern when you start seeing yellow spots or yellow leaves. Outside of that they will go all shades of green at some point or another.

If you look at your plant and the leaves are straight out or praying and it looks happy, then leave the plant, it's doing great and is doing what you asking it to do at it's own biological pace. 

I've had endless root rot issues with those cups, no matter how many holes I make, I eventually bought the  RapidGrow rooting pots - https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/rapidgrow-rooting-pots-with-tray/ and haven't looked back since.

Don't worry about your runoff PH, its going to fluctuate in the coco coir.
Runoff is not a good indication of what's going on at the root zone. To actually get an accurate ph reading you would need to do a soil slurry test from below the surface.

You can also ignore the runoff EC, its always going to be higher than your input EC. 

You should only worry about your input PH value which should be around 5.8 - 6.0 

Is there something wrong with your plants at the moment that you suspect a PH issue in your coco coir? 

On 11/2/2022 at 7:25 PM, Bay Seeds said:

Hi guys, so we are launching a clone site by the 25th of november. We have several strains in veg and we should start cutting the first clones by the 15th. It would be great if you guys would support us. We have 6 verified cheese srains. Blue Cheese, Confidential Cheese, 2 Exoduses, super cheese and big buddah. GMO cookies,black wolf, freakshow, 2 x surricanes, world war 3, dosi dos 33, mandarin skittlez, watermelon skittlez, gorilla skittlez, master kush, quick critical, sweet inzanty, 10th planet, chocolate gelato f2, strawberry sugar cookies, moby dick, lemon berry candy, the new, chemo remo, purple afghan, super silver pineapple haze,godfather og. Hope this goes well

What you going to price your clones at? I would be interested in the Blue Cheese, Exodus Cheese, Mandarin Zkittlez and dosi dos 33

Dear Diary,

It's been 2 and a half weeks since the last photo's, so here's an update.

On the indoor plants, I created had an issue for myself on the 13th, I got up early, filled and mixed up the nutrient reservoir, PH'd it and off my girlfriend and I we to Cape Town for the Weekend.

(Btw the way, we stayed in  Bloubergstrand and was very quickly introduced to a place there called "Baked". Seriously, go there, sign up as a member (R200) of their club, and go order an indoor joint and a sativa infused Chocolate Milkshake... It was amazing. I ended up fucking unbelievably Space-X high, there is just no other way to describe it. That chocolate milkshake though is the be all and end of all of all chocolate milkshakes, it's epic. 

Then like 100m down the road is this place called "Tree of Life"... where I proceeded to buy a "Moon stick", which was a gorilla glue joint, rolled in chocolope concentrate and then rolled in a haze kief. You got to try one of these  )

Ok back to the story (I'm so baked while writing this) - While we were flying high in Cape Town I had some issues at home... we had a 24h power outage, and a heat wave, so to his credit my step-son did manage the situation fairly well.
When I got back the following Monday, the plants looked like something genetically suddenly went wrong with all of them. they have grown, but the nodes are less an a cm apart and they have all just like bushed in one place or another. After checking through everything I found that in my haste on the Thursday morning before leaving, I forgot to open the tap of the reservoir to feed the plants and they had now gone from the wednesday to the following monday without anything. I figured with the co2, the high temps, the lack of water it just culminated  in the plants weird growth.

To rectify it, I cut off a whole bunch of nodes to space it out a bit and then just let them grow it out. They have since recovered nicely and I have started pulling them down and out to start the growth of the flat canopy which will grow into the scrog net once it's up.

The little outdoor plants I had in my tent in the first post have come along way. I've repot them into their 25L pots and they are now out on the grass for the outdoor season.
I have two 50w flood lights on them at night and will be adding a 3rd this month so I that I can light them up 360 degrees. 

Blueberry Sunset

Chempie x Purple Punch - This is by far the fastest growing plant I have ever come across.

The Zombie Kush

The outdoor plants will be feed a worm tea this week and hopefully they should settle into their homes nicely.
These 8 plants are spread out nicely and I'm busy looking at building a 4m x 4m shade cloth canopy to try help with heat and hail.

That's it for this update.

So I only start giving calmag for the coco coir about 3/4 weeks after I start feeding nutrients, After that I typically I use 1/4 (hard water) or  1/3 (soft water) the recommended calmag dosage on the bottle once a week, just to keep the coco coir buffered.

Then obviously when you want to actually feed your plant calmag, you just up the calmag dosage.

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

I notice you keep a lot of appliences and plugs directly in your grow space, I am sure you probably know about this and already covered all the little stray LED lights on everything.

You are correct sir, I went through all of them one night with the lights off and covered all the little leds and shit with the aluminum ducting tape.
The only two things that are still displaying is the Inkbird and the co2 monitor. I'll cover those up closer to flower. (or turn the co2 monitor off if I follow Prom's advice).

I also need to completely close up the Window which currently just has a towl in front of it, I just need to go pick up sticky velcro and some blackout fabric (I want to be able to remove it in the day if I need to). This will then give me complete darkness with no light leaks.

I also can't wait for the Zombie Kush, a strain with 20 awards should be great right? She is growing very strong and I am going to need to repot her soon.

23 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

Sure the aircon can raise ryhe temp, when the sun isn’t doing it’s job, in summer  

The co2 allows the plants to go up to 32 - 34 degrees and be fine, however, you shouldn't run your plants at those temps though... the co2 bags are like a heat safety net.

However in saying that, if I don't use the aircon, the temps will sit around 30 degrees in the room now already, let alone come Jan/Feb.
Generating heat in there isn't an issue. So yes, during load shedding the co2 ppm is high and the temps are high as well for those 2 or 4 hour periods. 

However this has been this weeks temps under the lights:

25 minutes ago, Prom said:

The lights are build different with their own cooling air in and out. You blow cold air into the light cooling duct and split to each light. They all exit outside the room so the main heat is taken care and you do not lose CO2 from cooling the lights. Over all you have 2 cooling systems, one for the room and one for the lights.

Are you not thinking of the old vented HPS lights?, if you google "co2 LED grow lights", there is no vented LED lights, only 1000W+ LED bar lights similar to mine.

The room is sealed mostly, I can maintain a very high co2 ppm. A split wall air conditioner would solve the problem since it would only reticulate the air inside the room and maintain the co2 levels.
However I wouldn't be able to connect it to my inkbird, which has a probe that I can use to monitor the "leaf temp" per-say under the lights, and control the cooling around that being about 27 degrees.

I'm not completely writing off a split unit aircon as a solution, I just need to do some more research into it.
Right now though, having my plants get high co2 for 12 out of the 18 light hours per day is acceptable to me for now.
How much it impacts the growth I have no idea, but since I already have these co2 bags they can hang out there for now

10 minutes ago, Prom said:

Very sexy!  Nice setup! No.. VERY nice setup ^^

If you run CO2, you use different lights, they are enclosed and have their own air in and out. You ventilate straight outside and only use a aircon to combat the little radiation heat. You can skip the CO2 bags.. rest looks perfectly working. 

Hi, thanks 

why would I run different lights for co2 and what different lights would I run?
These are 700w Samsung LM301H LED lights, that's 1400w over the 2.4m space... Or am I missing something here?

 

7 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

Fuck yeahhhh! That’s the first thing I said when I saw this! Very nicely done bro! 

Thats awesome to hear, thanks man 

Dear Diary,

Today I decided to finally start this diary and share my growing with other community members.
This diary will cover my indoor and outdoor growing, but lets start with the Indoor Grow Room.

After much effort and time I finally finished off my indoor grow room:

You can see the full YouTube video tour of my Grow Room HERE 

To explain what you are seeing here:

• The space itself inside is about 3.2m x 3.2m x 2.3m high.
• All walls have been covered in Diamond Mylar and sealed with Aluminum ducting tape.
• I'm using the tent pole frames of two 1.2m x 1.2m grow tents.
• In the far back corner, I have a 12000BTU aircon connected to a Inkbird ITC-308 Wifi unit and vented through the ceiling. This unit controls the aircon based on the temperature under the lights, It's set for 25 degrees as optimal. When it reaches 29 degrees, it turns on the aircon and brings the temperature back down to 25 degrees. This leaves me with average temperature of about 27 degrees on the leaf surface.
• On the back left, I have a GMC Air Purifier with a medical grade HEPA filter, this is used to filter the air on the Grow room and remove things like Powdery Mildew spores. It can cycles the rooms air one every 30 minutes or so. How much of a difference this is actually going to make in the room is still questionable, but I'm trying it out.
• In between the grow lights hangs three senses. One for the Temp / Humidity sensor on top of the first light ballast. The 2nd sensor is for the Inkbird controlling the aircon. The 3rd is a Inkbird IBS-TH3 Wifi provides me with the temperature and humidity readings on my cellphone with reporting.
• For this grow, I bought myself some Sunplus Sundro 700W lights (https://plantliving.co.za/products/700w-led-grow-light-lm301h-8-bar-quantum-with-uv-ir-sunplus-sundro), these are connected together and linked to the Touch Screen LED master controller (https://plantliving.co.za/products/sunplus-master-led-controller-touch-screen). These lights run their Blue, Red/Far Red and UV on 3 different channels so they can be controlled individually.. from the touch screen... Like Sunset and Sunrise... this shit is like cool. Currently the plants are vegging under 70% blue, 20% red, 20% UV for 18 hours a day.
• Using 3 Wild Spirit CO2 bags, the keeps the CO2 around 2000ppm for the most part of the day. However when the Air conditioner kicks in, it extracts a lot of air from the room, lowering the CO2. I'm not to sure how to get around this since a wall mount split aircon can't be connected the Inkbird Wifi controller. Any suggestions welcome?
• The 8 plants are using the Autopot system and are Feeding off an 85L reservoir sitting in the front of the room.
• The grow room is connected up to a 3kVa Inverter connected to a 4x massive battery UPS . The exception to this being the Aircon and Air Purifier which are on normal power. When there is load shedding, I drop my lights to use 15% power (Well I press the "Cloudy" button on the touch screen controller, fucking worth every cent yoh). The UPS can hold the grow room like this, my Internet, PC and girlfriends PC for about 2h30m. If its a 4 hour load shed during the day, I can remove the towl from the window and get sunshine into the room which provides more than enough light.

As for the indoor plants themselves, these are all clones from cannaclones.co.za and we:

2x Terple - InHouse Genetics
2x Zweety Inzanity - Ethos Genetics
2x Critical Cheese - Unknown
2x Dozi Killer - Jungle Boys Genetics

I'm currently feeding these plants NutriGold (Nutriplex) hydroponic nutrients, with Silicon, Calmag and Fulvic Acid and the plants are planted in the Atami High Porosity Coco.

Then for my Outdoor Grow for this year, so far we have:

2x Planet of the Grapes - Ethos Genetics
2x Mandarin Cookies v2 - Ethos Genetics
2x Blueberry Sunset - Unknown
1x Chempie x Purple Punch - Ripper Seed Genetics
1x Zombie Kush - Ripper Seed Genetics

These little guys are planted in freedom farms green bag and chomping on Biobizz fish-mix for the moment.
They spending the day in the Sun currently and the evening/night in the Tent to make up the 18hours of light.
In November, I will plant them out into their 25L/30L pots using the Freedom Farms Green Bag amended with the Elemental Blend from Dirty hands. From here they will spend 100% of their time outside.
I will be using a combination of Biobizz and Dirty Hand liquid nutrients, alone with some top soil amendments, Bio Boosters and all the Organic goodness you could ask for from an Outdoor grow.

Well that's it for now, I will update again once I have some more content, let me know if you have any questions.

If I hadn't just put my order in for 2x sunplus sundro 700w lights, I would actually consider these.

17 minutes ago, ORGANinc. said:

So the tent frames are in your bigger space, ahhh that’s exactly what you need man, clever thinking. 
 

you need to create a space within a space, that is a nice scrog frame too

 

So that's what I thought  - I've just finish doing all the walls in diamond mylar and I'm testing out using the tent frames as a structure to hold the lights, scrog nets, co2 bags, etc.

If it works well, then I will order 25mm camping polls and build my own frame that's more sterdy and perminant. Means I can reclaim my tent polls and sell my tents.

Also I dislike tent growing and not being about to get to every plant easily. Now I can literally walk around them.

Sorry to bring up a dead topic, but these lights are now available in the country. They brought in by Syntech and Plant Living (https://plantliving.co.za/collections/grow-lights?page=4) has the best pricing on them so far.

29 minutes ago, Prom said:

720w on a 1.2x1.2 area is a lot ^^ I use 440-480w on the same area. Might want to put a dimmer on. 301h are great diodes... nothing wrong, would use a dimmer ^^

Would also keep using till the diodes fade and you need new lights anyhow. I run 288 Quantum Boards and if you order from Alibaba directly, you should get for 25k about 16 QBs with 8 240w drivers... so you can light up a 2.4x2.4 tent with 25k.

They both come with dimmers.

The first one has a standard dimmer and a dimmer for "UV & 730nm IR" (To be honest, I have no idea why they bundled these ends of the spectrum together on 1 dimmer... The 730nm says "stretch" and the UV is like "nah bro... don't do that"), I guess the UV does have the benefit of increasing THC production.

The Lumii has a dimmer with set values (240w, 400w, 600w, 600w+boost (ie: 690w with 720w draw)

thanks for your feedback, much appreciated.

8 minutes ago, SkunkPharm said:

Aweh, seems like you should grow with what you have and invest your money in a back up system.

I already have a 3kw inverter and 4x deep cycle batteries, holds 1200w for about 2 hours.
 

In the new year I’m putting the whole house and the grow room onto solar. 
 

so… 

Hi Guys,

So I been growing in 2x 1.2m tents using Generic 640w - 8-bar lights running samsung 301H and osram 666nm diodes, with 730nm and UV and they look like this:

I can't say that I have been overly impressed with them, they work fine and have produced some quality flower, but...

I then decided to buy a Lumii Black 720w LED, as I was going to do some cloning/mother stuff, but then decided against it,

However, buying this Lumii light has started a head spinning series of testing which has left me feeling rather undecided.

So first off, this Lumii LED is monster bright, but in the region of around 12 000 lumens brighter than my existing 8-bar Samsung 301H lights.

The lumii spectrum is 50/50 red blue (3000k + 5000k), while my existing lights are more a 70/30 towards the warm side of color spectrum (3000k+3500k+4000k).

The only real advantage I can see with my 8-bar lights over the Lumii is that the 8-bar light has UV & 730nm IR on it's own dimmer, however in my past 2 grows, my plants have shown foxtailing and I'm suspecting it's due to this.

My grow space has now gone from 2x 1.2m tents to a 3m x 3m grow room, in here I have placed the frames of the two grow tents (to hold the lights) and I will be growing 8 plants in this "2.4m x 1.2m" tent frame area, so I will be utilizing two lights at once.

 So here are my options and I would like your options please:

 A. Continue with existing 8-bar lights because Lumens isn't going to make a difference and you better off the 730nm + UV. Also it has pretty purple lights...

 B. Buy another lumii 720w LED fixture and run two of them (Feel the POWA).

 C. I wouldn't do either of those, If I had R25k - R35k to spend on grow lights, I would rather buy 2x ___________________________ lights.

 D. ooooooo Look at the pretty purple lights....
 

56 minutes ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Just be careful of thinking it was just the enitial burst, though. You see the thing with these bags are that the mycelium is alive and it's busy consuming the substrate, as it's doing that it's actually breathing. if you put it on a timelapse it actually looks like a working lung and everytime it expands it consumes a little more of the substrate. crazy thing is it doesn't just look like a lung.... without the consuming part of it, mycelium, even the fruit body of the mushroom, breathes exactly like humans.

Oxygen in

Carbon Dioxide out

This does make sense and I did notice that after about 4 hours the co2 was back up their again. At first I thought it might be a temperature thing with it putting out less co2 when it's cold and more when it's hot in the tent, but the breathing you explain does make more sense. 

I've got the bags in the tents now, I just rigged my extractors up to timer switches, so every 4 hours from 6am to midnight they come on for 5 minutes and just clear out the excessive co2 and just cycle the air. I'll stick with this until my Inkbird devices arrive. 

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Aaah, summer rainfall with cold dry winters, that can be a tough one for indoor growers! 

Whaaaaaat 13% RH outside? that's dry as fuck  

How constant is that 13%? 

Those conditions can be hard to manage, but you definitly made the right move with the humidifiers and dehumidifiers. The quick fix solutions kinda go out the window if you live in an area like that.  

The humidity hovers between 10% and 30% during winter with warmer days being below 20% humidity and October being the worst month (lip-ice sales soar in JHB come september/october ). For flowering it's easy to manage, but for veg you basically running humidifiers all the time.

1 hour ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

What lights you running? Do you have natural high RH during lights off? or what's the reason for added RH with lights on, but not when lights go off?

Idealy, for cannabis, you want a lower RH during lights on than during lights off. As much as we can we should try replicate how they grow in nature and if you look at the places cannabis favour they have dry summers and wet winters. Hot days and cold nights. During the heat there is very low RH and during the night the RH goes way up. as far as my knowledge allows me, I think high temp + high RH = high probability for PM. amd the low temp + low humidity = stunted/slow growth.

For lights I have:

tent 1 & tent 2 - 700w Samsung 301H 8-bar spydr light

tent 3 - 720w Lummi 6-bar light

I'm currently running all lights at 400w at roughly 60cm above the plants.

So here's my logic right for VPD and the way I run my RH.

So for veg it wants to be warm and humid during the day and cool and "dryer" at night , essentially simulating a tropical climate.

So at the moment I run my tents at about 28 - 30 degrees with a RH of around 75% - 80%, then when my lights turn off at midnight, the humidifiers stop and there is no more air extraction.

The humidify in the tent drops slowly with the temperature until 6am in the morning when its about 18 degrees in the tent and 50% humidity. At this time the lights come and by about 8am the tents are at about 25 degrees and I come in and turn the humidifiers back on.

Doing this allows me to slide my plants up and down the early veg VPD line with the temperatures going through their normal warm / cool cycles.

So far my plants are growing at a good steady rate, looking healthy and are praying nicely to my lights. How much my VPD antics are influencing their current health and happiness is debatable, but I do think "simulated summer environment" is helping with the growth rate (or at least it is in my head, which is all that counts right? ). This is my first time using VPD as a measurement factor and so far things seem to be coming together nicely.

I promise I will post the grow diary of it soon, but here is a 8 day apart photo of one of the tents:

5 hours ago, Naughty.Psychonaut said:

Hey bud, hope you well! 

Those bags work nice for people who have more airtight grows where the plants deplete the CO2. in a completely sealed grow room you'll need to pump in CO2 from a tank. in a room that has sufficient FAE you won't really need those bags, because with every FAE you get fresh new C02 aswell.

those bags are also beneficial to people who live in very very low RH areas. 

I am in Western Cape, never needed added CO2. Infact, I always need to lower the RH so my circulation and extraction fans are constantly running from the day I plug them in. I just turn the extractors higher and lower depending on outside RH. 

rainy cold wet days - extractor on high.

warm humid days - extractor on low. 

this is also only for the flower tent as during veg it's beneficial for plants to go through RH fluctuations.

I grow bulk mushrooms, I inoculate 100's of these bags, when I first heard about these bags I had to try it out myself. They do pump off quite a bit of CO2, but only for a while, after the first 2 weeks they they release much less. 

All good my guy.

So I'm based on the west of Joburg and today it's reading 13% RH outside  - I permanently grow with humidifiers during this time of year and then dehumidifiers in summer.

Right now all my plants are in veg and I'm currently running my tents in a good VPD zone for early veg of about 28 degrees and 75% ~ 80% RH (during lights on that is, when the lights go out, the humidifiers go off).

So interestingly enough today, I'm only getting a reading of about 1000ppm coming out of the bags, I have them back in the tents and co2 is sitting at about 850ppm atm. So maybe this was just an initial activation burst of co2 or something?

 If you say they only pump out hectic co2 for about 2 weeks or so, then hopefully I will be able to get use out of them. Thanks for the info, greatly appreciate it.

Hey all,

So when i first started out growing, I grabbed a "Small Because Nature" co2 bag and when I got my co2 meter, I found that it wasn't really putting out that much co2, I wrote them off as gimmicky.

For my new grow where I am doing a little bit of min/maxing with plants, I came across the WILD SPIRIT CO2 MYCELIUM BAG - It says on the package that only 1 bag is "needed" for a 1.8m³ space, I have a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.0m (2.4m³) so I figured it might a bit low, but I would give it a try.

They arrived yesterday afternoon, the first thing I noticed is that they advertise 3 different versions of mycelium, 

Grey Oyster - Quick release co2 

King Oyster - Medium release co2

Shiitake - Slow release co2

The bags that were delivered happened to be the King Oyster variant, which I was super stoked about.

To activate the bag, you have to pull these orange clips that separate the two and then break up the mycelium and "massage" it down into the substrate. I do this at about  15:00 yesterday afternoon and go pop them into my tents (I have 3 tents, so one bag per tent). I figure they probably going to take a week or two to start colonizing the substrate, but I'm just curious, let me charge up my co2 meter and check it.

Now... Either I am losing my mind here or this shit is just straight up, fucked up. 

I put my co2 meter into one of my tents at lunch time today and it reads 3000 ppm. "No ways... let me check the other tents....tent #2 - 2800ppm, tent #3 - 3500ppm... ".

So thinking this can't be right I take the co2 meter outside, it resumes back to around 450ppm, walk back into the grow room, 800ppm, into the tent, 3500ppm

I decide to fire up my extractors and just bring in some fresh air. Nothing like three 150mm extractors sucking harder than a hillbrow hooker.

I get the tents back down to 500ppm, turn off the extraction, zip up the tents, close the grow room and off I go to the shops.

19:00 tonight I decide to go "troubleshoot" this strangeness. On my walk there, I think that it's impossible that 24 hours after activating this mycelium bag that the ppm would be this high. I unlock the grow room, walk inside and the meter instantly clocks out at 5000ppm. After resetting the co2 meter outside the grow room, I go back in, clocks out again at 5000ppm. I instantly fire up the extractors, open the windows and turn all fans to flush the room. After about 5 minutes or so the levels have dropped to about 1500ppm. 

I have removed these bags from the tents and put them on a table outside for now. I tested my meter in one of the tents after I have run the extractors and it stayed at around 750ppm, so it must be the bags.

I held the sensor again the facbric breathing hole of the bag and it immediately climbed over 4000ppm.

However, could 3 of these mycelium bags in a 34m³ be producing lethal amounts co2 24hours after activating it?

Is my co2 meter fucked? (its reading 450ppm for ambient air outside and if you breathe into the sensor, it climbs accordingly.

How can 1 bag be "needed" for a 1.8m³ space when in a 2.4m³ space it's already at 4000ppm within 24 hours?

Am I going crazy, or are these things really that ridiculously potent?