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Excolaber

Soil recipe

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Hi, I need some help with making a soil, I'm no newb to growing organically, I've made alot of mixes in the past, but most of them were experimental flops, and I'm still not sure what makes a good soil good to be honest

The ingredients I have right now are : horse manure worm castings(weighs 350g per litre), grow green organics kraalmis(cow manure/sawdust humus, weighs 400g per litre) most of their batches are quite undecomposed but I got lucky and scored a couple bags of pure humus, grow green organics mushroom compost (basically just partially decomposed bark, very acidic), coco coir, dark loamy clay garden soil and golden wattle leaf mold, I also have access to culltera herb mix, wormbosch castings and perlite but I'd like to avoid those because even though i know how good they are I don't feel it's worth the price, my local nursery over charges for them.

For amendments I have: bloody bone meal(5-10-0), dolomite lime (10% mg-16% ca, Epsom salts, gypsum, talborne 5-1-5, protek guano pellets (2-3-2) it's poultry manure not guano, bioocean poultry manure pellets with kelp and fishmeal(3-2-3 and high in iron), all season poultry manure pellets(4-1-3), superphosphate(0-5-0) it's not as bad as most people say, it's basically just calcium phosphate(same compound as in bonemeal and plants) and gypsum, then a bale of lucernce for mulch

The recipe I have in mind for seedlings and vegatative stage is 10% kraalmis, 10% mushroom compost, 25% horse manure worm castings, 5% leaf mold, 5% garden soil, 45% coco with 100 g all season pellets, 50g guano pellets, 20g dolomite and 20g superphosphate for 10l, it's close to a recipe I've used before but with more castings, less mushroom compost, less lime and without Epsom salts, the other recipe also didnt have garden soil or leaf mold, both of which I'm using as a microbial innoculant and replacement for rock dust

To make up for the lack of perlite I just make sure my soil is fluffed up and is holding the most water it can without being too wet or heavy when it goes into the pots, then water gently until a hard layer forms on surface to prevent compaction

All my plants go from 1l to 10l pots and then into the ground, I'll probably do another post asking for some advice amending my garden soil in the near future, sorry if this post is too long, just wanted to give the maximum amount of info for the best feedback, please criticize my mix, should I ditch the superphosphate and dolomite then replace with bonemeal? Should I maybe not use wattle for leaf mold? Is there ANYTHING anyone would do different?

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Welcome @Excolaber!

Quite the loaded question you have here. 

Are you new to growing cannabis in general? How have you grown before and why have you changed? 

Im just here to welcome you to the forum! Soil isn't my specialty, but there are a few gurus in the site that will be able to make sense of your ammendments and guide you on a well balanced mix. 

From my experience, it's all in the ratios at the end of the day. Put too much of one thing and it could lock out another amendment.

@Dank @SkunkPharm @Prom @oldsandals

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Thanks.Yeah I've been growing in soil for quite a while, used to use alot more chemicals though

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No I'm not new to cannabis, been growing since I was 15, and have had four pretty decent consecutive harvests since, I'm a good grower, just not consistently

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2 hours ago, Excolaber said:

No I'm not new to cannabis, been growing since I was 15, and have had four pretty decent consecutive harvests since, I'm a good grower, just not consistently

4 hey? That would make you... 19?

Or still 15 if it was indoor harvests lol😁😂

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48 minutes ago, CreX said:

4 hey? That would make you... 19?

Or still 15 if it was indoor harvests lol😁😂

Yeah 19

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Welcome to the forum @Excolaber  :-rolled

That mix could be a hot out of the gates with mentioned ammendments, i would let things sit for a month a two (after mixing) before planting.

Biggest issue with supersoils is growmies not waiting for their mix to cool down.

Using stuff that is not yet decomposed properly could rob your soil of certain nutrients temporarily. I would compost them well before using.

Do you make your own compost?

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49 minutes ago, Dank said:

Welcome to the forum @Excolaber  :-rolled

That mix could be a hot out of the gates with mentioned ammendments, i would let things sit for a month a two (after mixing) before planting.

Biggest issue with supersoils is growmies not waiting for their mix to cool down.

Using stuff that is not yet decomposed properly could rob your soil of certain nutrients temporarily. I would compost them well before using.

Do you make your own compost?

Thanks, I add the amendments to the coco and water it with worm tea a little while before adding in the rest, I like the compost to be fresh when it comes in contact with the roots

Yeah i do, I make castings out of horse manure and I have a pile of 50/50 alfalfa/kikuyu grass composting at the moment that I plan to add borage and comfrey to when the plants are big enough to take from, I'll use that to layer on top of my garden soil though. Why do you ask?

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Home made compost is one of the best methods to improve soil :-thumbsup , the commercial stuff is not so great.

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13 hours ago, Excolaber said:

Yeah 19

Love it, my brother is turning 19 today actually! and he also has an affinity to growing some green LOL

make yourself at home man and hit us up with some pics of your successes!

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Welcome.

Most soil amendments like manures, bonemeal and qwano pellets need composting as @Dank mentioned. That soil mix will be hot and seedlings will struggle and could burn.

My mix contains very similar amendments, dol. lime, bio ocean pellets, bone meal, rock dust, manure, EWC and garden compost. Been cooking for 30days and needs about 30 more at least. 

 

 

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14 hours ago, Dank said:

Home made compost is one of the best methods to improve soil :-thumbsup , the commercial stuff is not so great.

Couldn't agree more, commercial stuff ussualy sucks, thats why I only use small amounts, just for the sake of diversity and to save on my own

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On 10/15/2020 at 8:14 AM, CreX said:

Love it, my brother is turning 19 today actually! and he also has an affinity to growing some green LOL

make yourself at home man and hit us up with some pics of your successes!

Thanks, i lost all the pics of my previous grows but here's some of what I've got going at the moment

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4 hours ago, Bos said:

Welcome.

Most soil amendments like manures, bonemeal and qwano pellets need composting as @Dank mentioned. That soil mix will be hot and seedlings will struggle and could burn.

My mix contains very similar amendments, dol. lime, bio ocean pellets, bone meal, rock dust, manure, EWC and garden compost. Been cooking for 30days and needs about 30 more at least. 

 

 

Thanks, how much bioocean do you use? I stopped using it because I found the excess iron was locking out manganese and the high N to C ratio was causing my leaves to curl, but maybe I was just using too much, I prefer the all season pellets now days, I find I can use those at 200 g per 10l where I would never have been able to do that with bioocean

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You can add certain amendments straight to the pots you're planting in. I have used the Bio Ocean pellets as a topdress, but never straight/raw into my pots. My seedlings go into a diluted mix to avoid burning untill they show sex then get transplanted into the amended mix.

I added 3kgs of Bio Ocean seaweed pellets to 400ltrs of soilmix. Tried to err on the side of ''less is more'' cause there are some common elements in the amendments. Hence the soilmix needing to ''cook'' for at least 60-90 days to breakdown properly and reach equilibrium. 

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1 hour ago, Bos said:

You can add certain amendments straight to the pots you're planting in. I have used the Bio Ocean pellets as a topdress, but never straight/raw into my pots. My seedlings go into a diluted mix to avoid burning untill they show sex then get transplanted into the amended mix.

I added 3kgs of Bio Ocean seaweed pellets to 400ltrs of soilmix. Tried to err on the side of ''less is more'' cause there are some common elements in the amendments. Hence the soilmix needing to ''cook'' for at least 60-90 days to breakdown properly and reach equilibrium. 

That's helpfull, suppose I should have thought better about adding them into the mix, they are intended as a topdress, and it does make way more sense that way, maybe then nitrogen can volatize a bit and iron being more on the immobile side in soils will take longer to seep in, thanks for the advice

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1 hour ago, Bos said:

You can add certain amendments straight to the pots you're planting in. I have used the Bio Ocean pellets as a topdress, but never straight/raw into my pots. My seedlings go into a diluted mix to avoid burning untill they show sex then get transplanted into the amended mix.

I added 3kgs of Bio Ocean seaweed pellets to 400ltrs of soilmix. Tried to err on the side of ''less is more'' cause there are some common elements in the amendments. Hence the soilmix needing to ''cook'' for at least 60-90 days to breakdown properly and reach equilibrium. 

While i have your attention, I do the same thing with my seedlings, but I've heard that reveging them, even if they don't fully bud causes a slight decrease in quality for the next time they flower, is there any truth to this or did I just get bad info? And is it possible to somehow do the same thing with autos?with like a hormone or something, I have some auto white widow seeds I made from a winter grow a while back I'd like to try it with, they get quite a bit bigger and have a longer lifespan than most autos so I don't think I'd loose too much yield by doing it, if it's even possible

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In theory you can clone an auto but chances are you wont get a decent yield for all the trouble. The autoflowering trait is strong and can't be circumvented as far as I know. You could cross an auto with a photo, but you'll end up with a 50/50 mix of auto and photo seeds that'll need to be seperated.

I've cut and grown out plenty of clones, even from revegging plants. Didnt notice any reduction in potency or flavour.

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28 minutes ago, Bos said:

In theory you can clone an auto but chances are you wont get a decent yield for all the trouble. The autoflowering trait is strong and can't be circumvented as far as I know. You could cross an auto with a photo, but you'll end up with a 50/50 mix of auto and photo seeds that'll need to be seperated.

I've cut and grown out plenty of clones, even from revegging plants. Didnt notice any reduction in potency or flavour.

Thanks

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Just remembered I sent out some pics of last years harvest, this was some of my best

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