Noob1903

Hey

I have had endless problems with WPM and have tried almost all so called fixes. 

What has worked for me is to try to eliminate root cause first otherwise you will constantly battle;

1. Decent extraction

2. Multiple Fans (blowing underneath the canopy as well as above. Don’t worry about wind burn. Crank the fans to max as long as they oscillate

3. Feed in the morning rather than evening

4. Avoid plant leaves touching each other. Prune if you have to

5. Prune bottom ⅓ before flip to flower

6. Invest in a dehumidifier if budget allows

Treatment:

I use 50% Hydrogen Peroxide mixed at a ratio of 60ml to 940ml plain water (1L total volume). This will give you a 3% concentration which is relatively mild.

Wear gloves and a dust mask, switch off the main lights (do 1 hour before lights off, depending on qty of plants), switch off fans but keep extraction going.

Spray each plant, completely top to bottom, literally drench the plant. Take it a bit easier on the buds, but it’s ok if you spray them. Work methodically and don’t miss a spot.When complete, switch fans on max so the plants will be dry before lights come back on (water spots will create burn marks on the leaves)

Repeat above process on day 3 to catch any spots you might have missed. If WPM is still hanging around a few places, repeat again

Although this mix is mild, avoid contact with your skin. If you do get some on your skin, water and soap will fix it. 

It will most likely burn the pistils but that’s not really a big deal. I haven’t found that this affects smoke or aroma/taste of the finished product

I found about a 80% improvement the following day after the 1st treatment. Follow up spray is important to try to break the cycle.

Loadshedding always creates a WPM rich environment. No air movement and high RH are perfect for WPM. Try to get some air movement in your grow area while power is off, where possible

Sorry for the long post, but this is by far the best treatment I have experienced to deal with the issue

Bud Wash:

1 x bucket with warm water. Add Hydrogen peroxide at the same ratio as above (60:940) 

1 x bucket Lemon Juice & BiCarb

1x bucket cold water

Submerge for a few minuets in each bucket in that order. Rinse off with gentle spray, I use hose with gentle spray, and it will wash away a big amount of WPM. 

I swing the branches to remove excess water, then hang straight away

Good luck with the fight man, it’s a major pain in the ass and can ruin your buds, but hopefully this helps

50 minutes ago, Ill_Evan said:

Eish... I don't know about all that, chief. 

Not really sure about it either but it seems to make sense. There’s a lot of disinformation out there, which makes it difficult for us to learn. 
 

I’ll follow the process for a new grow and compare to my past grows. 

45 minutes ago, Michelle Venter said:

Hi there fellow Cannabis growers.

I have started a couple of months ago with my 1st attempt to grow these wonderful and beautiful plants for my own use, smoking.

Thanks for this platform!

 

Welcome!

These guys are very helpful when it comes to advice
 

Great forum to be a part of. Let us know if you have any questions

On 2/8/2022 at 8:09 PM, Ill_Evan said:

Show me which pen you got, there's a difference between EC and PPM. If you had an EC of 5000 you'd basically be feeding a brick of salt with no water  

We favor EC over PPM, so if you can, keep your records in EC. 

With TA Tripart, you usually want to be around 1.6 EC when growing, and maybe push to 2.0 EC when hitting flower. I see you're halfway through flower, so 2.0 would be where you want to be. 

Hi bud

It’s a cheap meter. It only has PPM & EC (Micro Siemens). The website recommends 1600 EC Outflow, so will keep things a bit lower to help the plants out. 
 

That runoff water looked like Monster Energy drink! 
 

next grow, I will keep a closer eye on the EC values to keep in check 

Hi guys. Thanks for the responses, been hectic at work. 
 

@Dookie69 You are 100% correct. I found a really helpful website for us beginners (Coco for Cannabis) and they have very detailed instructions for maintaining EC, managing EC run off etc. Super helpful 

I seem to be getting the hang of it. Essentially I was mixing nutes as per the dosages and feeding that to the plants directly without diluting first. I had to do a radical flush as the EC readings were accurate! My poor plants! 
 

The other question I have is how do you deal with the runoff in your trays if you have an indoor grow? Currently using a vacumn cleaner to remove excess water, but that is not a long term solution. Any bright ideas for drainage?

Thanks bud

I have always just followed the TA (prior to that GH) feeding chart.

I did a big flush with Florakleen and added more water to the mix to reduce strength.

Seems like you guys don’t feed to max dosages? I will adjust strength going forward

Plants seemed ok but didn’t seem to be bulking up. I will monitor closely

Thanks again


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Hey guys

Hope you are well

I need some advice please. I recently bought a EC/PPM meter to check and see if I have issues.

So I feed with TA Tri-part and am roughly half way through flower

I make up a nutrient solution in a 20L water drum. I use tap water, add nutrients according to the dosage on the feed chart, PH balance to roughly 5.8/5.9 - 6.0 (growing in Atami Coco)

I took a sample of the nutrient solution and obtained a reading of roughly 1500 EC. I watered to run off (4 different strains ) and tested each sample I collected. I rinsed syringe, sample cup and meter off with tap water between readings

My EC readings on all the strains are huge:

Input EC Sativa 1200

Choc Haze 5000

Input EC Sativa 1200

Grape Cookies 4090

Input EC Indica 1500

Bushfire OG 8248

Input Indica 1500

DBN Cookie Kush 5000

I haven’t calibrated the EC meter yet but did check the water before nutrients. Reading was 130 EC. I check this on 2 different occasions and that figure seemed constant so don’t know if the EC meter is that far out.

Do you think this is a calibration problem or are my plants getting too much nutes?

Please help, I really wanted to have a relatively hassle free grow, this time around

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Nah, if you have the hard micro continue to use it - if possible try add a bit of extra calcium though.
Calcium edta if possible, otherwise calmag could work too but contains high amount of nitrogen.

Ok, that’s great thanks

I still have 40L of a water mix containing Hard Micro, and am about half way into flower.

Should I chuck that and make new?


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Hi guys

Hope everyone is healthy & happy

Does anybody have an idea of how serious it is to switch between the “Hard Water” and “Soft water” variants on the TA Micro?

I recently ordered some nutes online and see I ordered the Soft Water version.

I don’t actually know what our local water’s hardness is (based in Jhb if anyone else has done the exercise)

Any thoughts?

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2 minutes ago, greenkush said:

Go to any nursery and ask for efekto Sulphur, mix a bit in water and spray.

Sweet, thanks. I normally get a blank stare when I ask...

12 minutes ago, CreX said:

yea, that is the trick with marine tanks, you cycle the finite amount of water through the filter over and over to purify it and kill off pathogens(or anything organic that finds itself not attached to anything and water borne)

where doing that for air, you will likely never reuse the same liter of air ever again once its been exhausted out the tent.

 

sheesh so long!? but you may have missed an important note about the spores... they can last in soil through the winter, or for years until the right conditions allow it to germinate.

you should spray your entire tent down with a fungicide like sulphur or copper soap, spray the tent walls, lights, fans... cables... everything, and let it dry.

i have even found that i battle less with PM when my walls are coated in a fungicide and not just my plants

Yeah, I had stuff to do around the house and have no time when I'm growing. Thanks for the tip on the Copper Soap, I'll take fans, etc apart and treat with a strong dose of H2O2, re-assemble and then try the Copper Soap drench. For added measure I'll try the UVC light as well. At least I know that the room will be sterile. 

I'll then keep to a strict regimen of Sulphur/Copper Soap in Veg and AQ-SF in flower

36 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

I personally do not use copper soap, aq sf can be sprayed in veg as well.

 

In veg sulphur sprays are what I typically do, normally just one before I flip to flower and then can do a preventative aq sf spray in flower on a weekly basis.

If you have a PM issue, then perhaps sulphur on a weekly basis to prevent PM and then once in flower switch to aq sf, if you notice any PM then bump up the aq sf dose.

 

If purchasing the aq sf and other sprays from Jamies garden shop, go for the 1L and not the 250ml.

I have purchased both and suspect the 250ml is just decanted with a printer label stuck on and at times have not noticed the usual globs floating around like in the 1L version - so makes me wonder whether they shook the 1L before decanting into 250ml bottles.

Also keep the aq sf in the fridge to help extend the shelf life.

Thanks bud

Struggling to find the Sulphur spray in JHB. What brand do you recommend? What about Neem in veg as a preventative?

14 hours ago, Dookie69 said:

I’ve seen this sort “dangerous” UV being used in marine fish tanks, where the object is to run a completely sterile environment, ie no good bacteria and no bad bacteria. The light lives in a black tube which forms part of the under-tank filtration system. The tanks have a finite amount of water which pass at a high hourly rate through the UV filter.

Yeah bud, have one on my tank already. If you see what UV does to that tube, its quite scary

2 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

This makes more sense and would work well, just ensure the light can get to everyplace in the tent!

 

Won't help if you have a PM problem already though, but there are sprays which can be used for that.

I shut down the sheds for over 2 months already to try break the PM cycle. I'll do a deep clean, then run the machine for a few hours and then switch off. Existing mold spores should be killed off and then I can spray Copper Soap in Veg (not sure of ratios or frequency) and perhaps AQ-SF in Flower to prevent new PM

Sounds like a plan?

Thanks guys

i went through the documentation and they advise removing the plants prior to use

i think I will use for cleaning/sterilizing  between grows and not daily use.

Night all

9 minutes ago, GGG said:

I just upped my airflow through the growspace , got a humidity controller for when the lights go of there use to be no airflow through the space just in the space . Haven't had PM for awhile now and all because of the humidity controller that regulates my exhaust fan with the temp controller also on the same fan. Tried most ways but this is the best sofa

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I have a dehumidifier 20L as well that runs continuously.

18 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

This,

Air in fan, fully enclosed light, air out fan.

Done deal.

Hi bud. Where did you find this?

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated!

I'll look at an enclosed unit that I can connect to my active intake rather. 

I have shut down my sheds to do a proper disinfect/sterilize and am looking at ways of preventing PM entering the shed via the active intake. Tried the stocking route to cover duct opening but that hasn't helped with the PM.

Ventilation has been increased to the following:

3 x 40cm oscillating fans

3 x 23cm oscillating fans

1x 9000Btu Aircon - oscillating

i currently have an 8" silent fan connected to a 6' carbon filter. Should i look at upgrading the extraction rather?

I am now aware of preventative measures to avoid PM, but am looking to make sure my shed set up is correct

Thanks for the replies

From what I have heard & read, leaving the lights on for an extended period will damage plants. This unit has time incremental settings and has a fan that draws in air to sterilize. I would start on the lowest setting (15min) maybe once per week?

Thoughts?

Hi guys

Has anyone tried to use a UVC lamp to combat PM?

https://www.acdc.co.za/pages/product-individual?PTX003-WH

1 hour ago, CreX said:

so it all comes down to ratios of the elements after a feed.

you want the plant to have access to nutrients all the time. you never want your plant without nutes.

if you have a problem with your plant that necessitates a flush, then you would go in with a lower dose...as if the plant was a smaller plant. but once growth is normal again... you should resume at the EC you were at before the problems came up.

so with the ratios. if you feed a plant no till run off, you stand a chance that high levels of un absorbed elements will build up and cause trouble

this is further exaggerated if you add clean water... as the plant will absorb the nutes from the previous feed in the same fassion as before, and further throw out the ratios within the medium... 

that is why you should feed till run off in coco... you are clearing the imbalance out and realigning the ratios to where you would like them.

if you do this each feeding... the medium will always have the right ratio of nutrients... and not a high EC with perhaps too much phosphorus or potassiom or iron or whatever

 

Sorry to jump in here;

I understand perfectly what you are saying and I also need to adjust my feeding method.

What is happening when you water every 2nd day, and the feed/water drains out of coco immediately? Some strains obviously need more water but i have a few that when they are due for a feed, i would say i can feed only 500ml before seeing runoff at which point I stop as I don't want the roots sitting in water

Conversely, when a plant seems like it isn't absorbing any water (bag is still heavy after 2/3 days and a feed of 1L) would that be a good time to flush? (Florakleen)

9 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

AQSF from Jammies.

Thanks bud

Where did you get the Jadam products? Cannot find anything on the Internet

9 hours ago, The_StonedTrooper said:

@Noob1903if your 12L can do this size room, I say go for it, and please report back. I try to keep my room RH low, but not managing to break 50 on a good day, unless a freak occurrence in weather.

Not knocking your opinion at all Crex

I'd love to find a way too while late in flower that I dont have to bud wash.

Hi

I have to run the 12L on continuous operation in order to keep humidity at that level. Learnt the hard way that its best to plumb straight away instead emptying the damn bucket twice a day. If you are looking at getting one, rather look at the 20L. That is a way better option.

Room size is 2.2L x 1.6W and the  12L barely keeps up, but has managed to bring RH down from spikes of 90% (in previous grows)

Thanks to all for the tips/hints troubleshooting etc..I guess i need to learn the basics to prevent issues going forward