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Aweh fellow florists, The ladies are putting on their show. Buds are swelling and stinking with goodness, despite the heavy rain and high rh. Lost a few girls to the "taxman" mentioned in earlier posts, got a new problem with small spiral snails "ring debarking" some plants-tested some vinegar/soap mix to no effect, now dusting with cinnamon. Don't like spraying stuff in flower, hopefully they'll pull through. Chopped some Bluecheese f1's this morning. Pics of Charlottes, Gorilla Glue, Bluecheese. Our climate on the north coast is unforgiving to say the least. Its like the weather wants to kill your plants.....4 days of thunderstorms and rain, high rh and the next day temps touching 50deg. A good test for any genetic abd the reason why you plant double and take extra clones, just in case. Cheers.

Johan's Nutcracker day 49.

Didn't actually plan for them to get this big. Mother nature doing her thing...

Awesome training/presentation, Upside down Candelabra... A night foto with flash will reveal the jewels.

Aweh. Ladies are progressing well, flowers are looking sticky and dank.Tending this garden is its own reward, an olfactory assault/experience that is just next level, These strange flowers that intrigue us so... 1-2. Gorilla Glue bred off of a gift from @Mambawana. 3-6. Blue Cheese f1-Sativa...ish 7-10. Blue Cheese f1-indica...ish 11-12. Swazi 13-14. Blue Cheese f1 15-16. Charlottes Angel fem. One of 2 pheno's. @highchome, @PsyCLown Thanks for the meds.

Got branches hanging and ceiling fan on full tilt, temps around 22 degrees and RH hovering around 65%, not ideal, but humidity should start to drop in a couple of days (it's also been raining the last two nights in a row which doesn't help). Buds are rock hard and are stinking up the house, but I really need to invest in a dehumidifier as there is going to be a lot more bud to dry in the next few weeks!

Going to switch to Final Part now and give it another two weeks or so.

You could thin the mix out with coco and perlite to reduce the high N initially, but chances are good that you'll conversly have to supplement P, K and possibly micros during flower depending on your soil formulation. It's up to you.

Well, fun few weeks we had, me and the girls, but luckily after a few males 2 litle girls, a Runt and a Sativa dominant pheno emerged that, at this stage, is giving me the idea that quite a few more beans need to be popped. I do not have manny left but as soon as the mother room is up and running, they all going in for a propper pheno hunt and pollination session for some fresh beans. Added in some new testers for the collection of mothers I am planning to run. White Rhino, Franco's Lemon Cheese and Orange Velvet Underground. Receiving some White Wedding, Grape Diamonds and Humbolt's Freakshow cuts next week. The preparations for next season is starting in Ernst. Cuttings will veg till late winter and then be placed outside to flower for selection. LGO The only normal Girl in this round. This little one grew lile a cutting with offset internodes. This little guy topped himself at node one. Have allot of work with this strain. Will have to make some fresh beans, she's all over the show.

Depending on the age and stage of the plants in the 2lt bags. If in veg, transplant, give them 2 weeks, then go outdoor. Light hours on the north coast around 13hrs now. If you veg 16/8 or 14/10 technically they should flip to flower as soon as they go outside. I'd go minimum 20lt, the plants will use some of the available N during veg in the new bags, but plants need N throughout, just in different amounts.

I am also a victim of Magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I have been using it for many many years but this is now my 3rd run that I am suffering with magnesium deficiency in freedom farm classic. I am going to water plain water at about 6.7 for now and see what happens Took a huge loss on my previous run my plants in veg tents using the same batch of soil is doing the same as my flower room I have another flowering tent using orgasoilux and those plants are fine.

Ah, I thought as much. Thanks for the input! I've only done a few indoor runs using General Hydroponics tripart salt based nutes, but never salts outdoors in soil/coco/pearlite. I was using the Biogrow range for a few years and then swapped over to the Pro Organic range and have always used molasses when growing organically. I just found that using molasses always made the buds extra sweet and sticky compared to times I didn't use it, even did a side by side comparison with some indoor clones. Regardless, I always like to flush heavy, even with organics as I like to get that fade in But the proof will be in the pudding!

Hi all, We had a few hot days in a row, 27-34c Celsius. I have been trying not to overwater. On thursday, 3 days ago i noticed leaves started looking strange, see below pic - i then followed with first introduction or nutes (atami bcuzz A + B soil at 1ml per L of each- i made a 20L BUCKET and watered each plant with roughly 3-4L the pots are 5gallon so watered under 25% of pot capacity.) Water ph 6.3-6.5 run off after first nutes given 6.5 - 6.7 24 days old Was i suppose to use 4L of the fert water when feeding or was i suppose to use 1L of the fert water and 2-3L of fresh water after? I suspect this is due to being over nutted.. when i provided nutes for the first time was when soil was on the dry side.

Hi guys, I'll try keep this short and quick: I've always been super happy with my bud after harvest; super dense and frosty, even the small wispy buds lower down will turn your brain to mush. But for some reason I have a persistent problem of the spaces between flower nodes stretching to eternity when I flower. I never see this issue during veg! I've attached some images, the first three being of my indoor photoperiod plants and the 4th being of my casual outdoor autoflower. You can clearly see the density of buds on the autoflower is significantly higher than the photoperiods and I swear I didn't do anything different between each of them! Indoor Strains: 2x OG Kush and 2x King Kong Days in flower: 14 days Light: 8 year old purple spectrum Mars Hydro 600w equivalent LED Light distance from canopy: Moved to around 35-40cm from canopy during flower Nutrients: Terra Aquatica 3 part (Micro, Grow, Bloom). And a dash of Diatomaceous Earth every feed for the Silica pH: Generally around 6-6.3 Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered Outdoor Strain: Zkittles Auto Days in flower: No idea to be honest I wasn't paying that much attention to this plant Light: Good old fashioned sun Amount of light: I actively move the plant around to chase the sun as much as possible. Nutrients: Exactly the same as above but more diluted as you can see some burn going on there pH: As above. Growing Medium: Freedom Farms 70/30 Coco Perlite Buffered

You see the spacing is tight with the auto which is grown outdoor with the sun. Where your indoor plants have large internodal spacing. This gives me reason to believe its a light issue. You mentioned you using a 8 year old blurple light. I would recommend getting a new light such as a LED quantum board. I have a 120w quantum board from Green Houston, next to my old 100w Mars Hydro 48 reflector in one tent. (70cm x 70cm) and they work great together. When looking for a quantum board always look for ones with Samsung diodes. Ill provide the link to the one I purchased. There are different sizes and versions. But any quantum board that uses Samsung diodes such as LM301H diodes will be excellent. https://www.greenhouston.co.za/products/quantum-board-led-125w Depending on the size of your tent you might have to go larger or buy multiple. However if you just get one Quantum board, you can combine it with your old light.

Hey man. Large spaces are either formed from not enough light and sometimes its just a trait of the strain. Maybe try defoliate more to expose bud sites. Sometimes the problem is not the amount of light, but instead the light coverage. There could be other reasons, however this is all I know of. On the breeder packs it will let you know if the strain stretches during flowering and sometimes they will mention the common internodal spacing. Different strains have different characteristics during flower and different phenotypes of the same strain can have different plant structure. If you constantly have the same issue, it could be a different reason. Good luck man

I’m no salts grower but with my limited experience it looks like nutrient lock out due to a pH issue. I would make sure you have sufficient run off then watering your plants .

What a problem to have... Stinky flowers are a good sign.

Decided to harvest the Jillybean and Pineapple chunk at the crack of dawn this morning, weather has been super windy the last few days and it looks like some light rain this eve so wanted to get those two plants chopped ASAP. Noticed a couple of small spots of powdery mildew on some of the lower leaves of the Jillybean which I removed before chopping, but luckily, it looks like nothing on the buds or any of the other plants. Also had a tiny amount of bud rot on the pineapple chunk from water dripping off the shade cloth onto a couple of buds, but noting too serious, just picked it off with some tweezers before chopping the plant. Day before harvest: Jillybean (started going dark purple after cooler night time temps and lots of flushing) Pineapple Chunk: (probably the next strain I'll do indoors)

I’m looking for some advice on something I’ve never done before. I’ve started some feminized Indicas indoors and plan on moving them outdoors to flower as electricity cost is too high for me to complete the grow indoors.So right now the plants are in 2 liter fabric bags with Orgasoilux super soil and will be transplanted to either 15 or 20 liter fabric bags and given supplemental lighting to extend the veg period by a week or so. My question is this.Since I will be transplanting into a much bigger volume of fresh soil and flowering quite soon afterwards,won’t the soil have too much Nitrogen for flowering?The reason I ask this is because much of the available N will not have been ‘used up’ by the time flowering is initiated.I should add that this soil has been sitting unused in the bags since my last outdoor grow 15 months ago so nutrients have probably broken down nicely by now. Maybe I’m overthinking this I don’t know!

https://www.loudcpt.co.za/shop/reversa-privada-sts-reversal-spray-100ml/

Where can you buy sts solution? Or chemicals?

There is no need for molasses, since it main purpose is to feed the microbes in your soil. However since you are using salt based nutrients you have basically killed all your microbes off so I would just continue with your nutrients then do a heavy flush last week or two. You don't want to be smoking bud with synthetic fertilizer still present. Happy growing

Just a quick update, I spoke to the manufacturer of the nutrients and he advised I shouldn't use any molasses and I should just push through with the salts until a week before harvest, so I'll do just that! The Pineapple Chunk and Jillybean will be up for harvest first, probably in the next 10 days or so, so I gave them their last dose of bloom nutrients before I flush. The sativas are still taking their sweet time, but getting thicker and still stretching, the one Chocolope actually ended up hitting the ceiling of the shade cloth so I tied it down a bit. The wind has been insane the last few days, so I had to do some extra tying up, but all good.

My Ph is usually between 6.3 - 6.6, I don’t go below 6.2 with organics

She finished wonderful, but I'm doing a second round and it's going even better!